Letters from Lodi
An insightful and objective look at viticulture and winemaking from the Lodi
Appellation and the growers and vintners behind these crafts. Told from the
perspective of multi-award winning wine journalist, Randy Caparoso.

This week, Happy Veraison from Lodi!
This week in Harney Lane Winery's Lizzy James Vineyard Zinfandel (planted in 1904): blaze of veraison glory
As of mid-July 2017, it’s that time of year again in Lodi wine country – the start of veraison, the handy French term (véraison) for “change of color of grape berries.” Call it a coming of age (a vinous bar mitzvah?) of grapes, which happens in an often spectacular blaze of colors, from greens to reds and purplish blues and blacks.
But it’s not just the transitioning of hues that grape growers see in their vineyards. To them it also means grapes have a reached a mid-point of develpment; when berries cease accumulating green mass and begin to accumulate the sugars and flavors instead, which will make fermentation happen and lots of wine lovers happy...
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Lodi's PRIE Vineyards releases a seriously deep, layered Dornfelder
Deep colored Dornfelder grapes in Lodi's Mokelumne Glen Vineyards
Whoda thunk?
That a German red wine varietal normally turned into light, simple, tutti-fruity red wines, typically with small amounts of residual sugar, could yield such a seriously dry, deep, ponderously dark and flavorful red wine in the Lodi, California?
But that’s exactly what Mokelumne Glen Vineyards, located on the east side of the City of Lodi, has been doing over the past 10 years on their property, quietly becoming renowned for its “German Collection” (albeit, German and Austrian grape varieties – at this writing, numbering 50 total)...
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Enduring demand for... teinturiers!
Red pulped Alicante Bouschet just picked in Borra family's Church Block
What is a teinturier? Now, that’s a good question for a wine themed game of trivial pursuit.
Teinturier is the French word for “dye,” but in respect to wine, it refers to a type of black skinned grape possessing red colored flesh or juice. Teinturiers are unusual because the flesh of the vast majority of red wine grapes is absolutely colorless, devoid of pigments.
All the familiar red wine varietals – Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, etc. – are white pulped. All the color in wines made from these varieties is derived from the skins of those grapes – the pigments extracted during the fermentation process (since red wines are always fermented skins, seeds and all – the skins also contributing the tannin as well as much of the flavor components associated with these varietals)...
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The impact of pioneers on bourgeoning wine regions like Lodi
Lodi's Bob Koth, watching over harvest of cutting-edge German grapes in his Mokelumne Glen Vineyards
In the latest Wine Business Monthly (July 2017), Jake Lorenzo (the pseudo name of longtime Sonoma winemaker/journalist Lance Cutler) writes an interesting thing about how wine regions successfully evolve; saying: It is Jake Lorenzo’s experience that every wine region dates back to a couple of pioneers. These are people with vision, drive and confidence who are well ahead of their time.
The operative phrase in this observation is “well ahead of their time...”
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At 2017 Economics Symposium, Lodi in pole position as America's leading wine grape supplier
Lodi on fire: ancient oak and vines during early summer sunset of 2017
When you come to a fork in the road, take it. - Yogi Berra
The Lodi wine region, along with American wine consumers, have recently reached another crossroad; at least according to several industry observers speaking at the Second Annual Lodi Vineyard & Wine Economics Symposium, held last week at Lodi’s Wine & Roses Hotel, and attended by about 150 industry professionals...
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Culinary yin and yang of Hawaiian cuisine and Lodi wines
Hawaiian hukilau, or "pull" fishing (classic S.S. Lurline menu cover by Eugene Savage)
Lodi may be somewhat of an old fashioned farming community; but one thing everyone here knows: Lodi folks get out. Many of our successful farmers and vintners, in fact, are out and about every summer – exploring every nook and cranny of the world.
When in Rome, as they say, we do as Romans do – including eat, and drink, and hang around outdoor cafés from early afternoons to the wee hours of the morning.
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International Wine Review gives Lodi Zinfandel its due respect
This past February 2017, International Wine Review's Mike Potashnik (third from left) and Don Winkler (fifth from left) meet with Lodi Native growers and winemakers; including (from left) Jeff Perlegos, Ryan Sherman, Chad Joseph, Layne Montgomery (with dog), Stuart Spencer, Tin Holdener, Mike McCay and John Perlegos
Zinfandel is not the only grape in which the Lodi Viticultural Area excels. But it has always remained the region's signature grape.
It is also a measure of Lodi’s standing in the world of Zinfandel that out of the seven days that the editors of the widely read International Wine Review spent in California this past February 2017, gathering material for a double-issue (released earlier this month) devoted completely to California Zinfandel, they set aside a full two days to research Zinfandel in Lodi. Zinfandel Advocates & Producers (a.k.a. ZAP) also played a major part in organizing the magazine's California visit...
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Stunning beauty through the eyes of Lodi photographer Dena Marquez
Ancient, noble oak and vines (Jessie's Grove Carignan, planted in 1890s) memorialized by Lodi's Dena Marquez
My heart is drenched in wine...
- Norah Jones
To see the world of Lodi wine country through the lens of Lodi photographer Dena Marquez is to experience an unbridled enthusiasm and ardor for the natural elements that make Lodi Lodi.
Consequently, the colors in Ms. Marquez’s particular style of photography seem to spring from their surfaces like the fragrances of fruit driven wines (Lodi style wines) leaping from the glass. White clouds in blue skies become irrepresible, somersaulting acrobats. Sonorous sunsets are like dramatic endings to musical scores. Yellows in wild mustard chirp like newborn chicks. Lichen crusted old vines are like old men with wizened, wine stained hands, sitting in dark rooms, murmuring about vintages long past or forgotten...
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Lodi’s sophisticated dry rosés (or, the perfect way to beat the heat)
Glasses and glasses of Lodi rosé (image courtesy of Robin Black Photography)
Oh, it’s that time of year again – when red balls of mercury are shooting up to alarming notches above 100.
Lodi wine country’s sea of vines, if you haven’t noticed, has also been growing at a rampant pace this past spring. Out in the fields, curly tendriled canes seem to be striving for elephant eye heights, with lobed leaves looking downright tropical in size and, well, greenness. Biblical winter rains will do that to a wine region...
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Riaza's unorthodox interpretation of Lodi grown fruit
Riaza Wines winemaker/co-owner Rick Taylor
First things first: Riaza Wines is different from other Lodi based wineries.
The back-story, perhaps, may not be so different: A young couple sharing a love of wine travel to Spain (finding a little town called Riaza, as it were), fall in love with the culture and gastronomy, and come home determined to produce their own Spanish inspired wines...
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