Markus and Liz Bokisch, who own Bokisch Vineyards in Lodi, have recently been turning the wine world on its head.
You've probably heard, for instance, winemakers sanctimoniously talk about how they pick grapes "by flavor, not numbers." How they all wait for "physiological ripeness" before harvesting. As if, of course, they would be waiting for "physiological unripeness" before sending out their harried crews. Well, Markus has been following along with that for most of the past eight, nine years, while still making the best damned white wines from the native Spanish Albariño grape in California (of course, there's only three, four other wineries in California producing Albariño, but so what — Markus makes the best!).
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