Letters from Lodi
An insightful and objective look at viticulture and winemaking from the Lodi
Appellation and the growers and vintners behind these crafts. Told from the
perspective of multi-award winning wine journalist, Randy Caparoso.

Borra Vineyards takes a bow for their stunning Fusion Reds
Borra Vineyards grower/proprietor Steve Borra has always cut quite a figure in Lodi’s winegrowing circles, with his signature cowboy hat and crusty handlebar mustache – he even walks into a room with a rider’s bowed gait.
Then again, these days Mr. Borra has a lot to take a bow for; especially since last week’s very public announcement that the 2008 Borra Fusion Red ($19) has been named among the twelve Wall Street Journal Wine Awards Annual Dozen – and we ain’t talkin’ Dirty Dozen…
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Vinedos Aurora adds to Lodi’s rich, inspiring heritage
Vinedos Aurora winemaker, Gerardo Espinosa
Viñedos Aurora, one of Lodi’s hottest new brands, is special for several reasons. First, and most importantly, the quality of Viñedos Aurora wines is impeccable: a purplish power packed yet finely chiseled Petite Sirah; a dreamily balanced and multi-scented Cabernet Sauvignon/Tempranillo/Merlot blend called Síntesis; and a light, minerally, whippersnapper of a dry white made from the Albariño grape.
Viñedos Aurora is also a great American story: beginning with the grandfather of winemaker Gerardo Espinosa, Victor Anaya Rocha, who first came to the Stockton area from Michoacán, Mexico to work the fields in 1944. For many years, Anaya Sr. traveled back and forth, raising four sons – Victor Jr., Ramon, Armando and Gerardo Anaya – all of whom earned degrees in agricultural engineering from the University of Michoacán...
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Lodi wines are big winners at 2012 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition
Two of Kyle and Jorja Lerner's Harney Lane wines were Gold medal winners at the 2012 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition...
The medal winners at the ultra-prestige 2012 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition were announced last week (January 6). Duplicating results of recent years, wines grown in the Lodi AVA took home an impressive share of top honors...
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In praise of ZAP & Lodi terroir
Ancient zin vine in Mohr-Fry Ranches -- one of Lodi's most beloved terroirs...
You don’t need flowers in your hair, just an enthusiasm for a wine grape that was once so well loved that it was nearly forgotten. Each year for over the past twenty years, some 7,000 to 8,000 Zinfandel lovers have flocked to San Francisco for Zinfandel Advocates & Producers’ annual Grand Tasting. Clearly, if there is any one grape that personifies vinous love and power-to-the-people, Zinfandel is it.
This year’s ZAP Grand Tasting takes place on January 28, 2012 at The Concourse (8th & Brannan) in San Francisco, where over 250 wineries will be pouring their Zinfandels – including these Lodi based producers...
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The near-immortal Pasos Vineyards Charbono
Pasos Vineyards' Antonio Pasos
It takes an inquisitive mind to even want to make a wine called Charbono, and pure skill to make something significant from this little known black skinned grape. Meet Antonio Pasos, owner/winemaker of Lodi’s Pasos Vineyards.
Mr. Pasos discovered his calling fairly early in life, when his family moved from Monterey (where he was born) to Madera in California’s Central Valley to grow wine grapes. Granted, 25, 30 years ago the Madera AVA was mostly about Thompson Seedless – industry old timers will recall that at one point, this table grape was the backbone of California “Chablis” – but in their own backyard, the Pasos family also grew “experimental” grapes like Syrah, and various clones of Cabernet Sauvignon on multiple rootstocks. Hence, the germination of Pasos’ inquisitive nature...
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Lodi’s best days ahead (thanks to Mark Chandler!)
Mark Chandler
On January 1, 2012 the Lodi Winegrape Commission – representing over 750 Lodi region growers plus over 80 wineries – will embark on a new era with the departure of Mark Chandler, the organization’s first and only Executive Director since its establishment 20 years ago. Mr. Chandler, who has privately been telling friends simply that “it was time,” has composed a farewell in his succinct yet sincere fashion (a long admired signature!) for our readers on lodiwine.com...
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A year in Lodi 2011 (part 2)
The classic, super-well drained, beach-like Tokay sandy loam beneath 92 year old Alicante Bouschet vine in Mohr-Fry Ranches (mid-Nov. 2011)
In August of each year in the wine country, grapes are past véraison — when sugar rises and acidity decreases in the grapes, which turn from a hard green to shades of purple, red, black, blue or gold — and are beginning their race towards their peaks of flavor.
As in many other parts of the world, the challenge for growers in Lodi is to achieve full fledged ripeness notwithstanding nature’s usual autumnal slings and arrows: rain, rot, cold, heat, dessication, and on and on. Vintage 2011 in Lodi was as problematic as most, but overall quality, in terms of sugar/acid balance and pure flavor, was as good as any. Especially in regards to Zinfandel, Lodi’s bread and butter — most of which were picked prior to mid-October rains. Subsequent rot forced some growers to leave a small percentage of their vineyards unpicked (particularly Petite Sirah), while the sturdier late ripening grapes (like Cabernet Sauvignon) survived the damp spell with their skins intact...
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A year in Lodi 2011 (part 1)
Against the typical cloudy backdrop of January, ancient Lodi vines, just pruned and conserving energy for their upcoming spring bud break...
Looking back on another fruitful year in the Delta
Looking back at our favorite photos of the past year also gives us a good sense of how vintage 2011 developed, and more to look forward to in the years to come when we finally uncork and taste the year in our mouths. Some of our favorite scenes from the past year...
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What Lodi’s winemakers are enjoying this Christmas
What will Lodi’s winemakers be enjoying over the upcoming Christmas holidays? We asked a few of Lodi’s finest this question, and discovered a couple of things: how much of a mutual admiration society they have going on (they love drinking their colleagues’ wines), and how much they great European or classic American wines. What they say...
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Dream case for the Lodi wine lover who has everything
Why begrudge your fellow man by stalking off or clicking off the television every time one of those Lexus Christmas commercials comes on? We can be happy for other people’s success (yeah, right), but when it comes to wine, this question never really goes away: why do people spend too much on bottles of wine?
We’re talking about big-name, big-shot wines that cost over $100, $200, or even $500 a bottle. They’re not like a Lexus, which at least gives you a nifty package of engineering. Fine wine is more like aesthetic arts or crafts: the qualities appreciated are sensory, and therefore very much a state of mind, rather than a measurable technology. The most exciting wine, when you think like this, are those that are totally new and unexpected. Wines of originality as opposed to sameness; surprise as opposed to predictability.
And if there’s anything for which Lodi grown wines are becoming increasingly known, it’s their originality and total, wonderful ability to surprise. Who would think, for instance, that wines made from grapes called Tannat or Verdelho could taste so good? Although these grapes have European origins, very few vintners in Napa Valley or Walla Walla would think to grow them. They’re mostly stuck on grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay – which are perfectly fine, but not always a turn-on for wine lovers with a thirst for the new and different...
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