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Letters from Lodi

An insightful and objective look at viticulture and winemaking from the Lodi
Appellation and the growers and vintners behind these crafts. Told from the
perspective of multi-award winning wine journalist, Randy Caparoso.

Randy Caparoso
 
May 28, 2025 | Randy Caparoso

A new, different, exciting style of ancient vine Lodi Carignan

Lorenza's Melinda Kearney with ancient vine Carignan in Lodi's Rauser Vineyard, planted in 1909.

Ancient vine Lodi Carignan, 2.0

Lorenza Wine—owned and operated by the mother/daughter team of Melinda Kearney and Michèle Ouellet—has recently released their first red wine sourced from Rauser Vineyard, an own-rooted, east side Lodi vineyard planted in 1909 primarily to Carignan, with small amounts of interplanted Alicante Bouschet and Zinfandel.

The 2023 Lorenza Rauser Vineyard Mokelumne River-Lodi Carignan ($36), however, consists entirely of Carignan. What is noteworthy is how this wine came about, resulting in a totally unique style of this varietal red...

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Time Posted: May 28, 2025 at 6:00 AM Permalink to A new, different, exciting style of ancient vine Lodi Carignan Permalink
Randy Caparoso
 
May 22, 2025 | Randy Caparoso

With their new Heleje brand, the Des Voignes family turns culinary dreams into dreamy contemporary wines

Chefs Jake and Shauna Des Voignes in their kitchen with their newly released Heleje wines.

Once upon the time there were two career chefs who met in a super-fine big city restaurant, got married, worked their fingers to the bone. 

Some would say it was a perfect combination since she was a pastry chef and he an executive chef, so it was match made in culinary heaven. Dishes and dessert, right?

But it really wasn’t. So they packed up and retreated (as Eva Gabor used to sing, goodbye city lights!), three kids and all, to her original home in Lodi. He continued to labor, as Executive Chef and later as Food & Beverage Director of the tony Wine & Roses Hotel. Once settled into life back in the country, however, they connected one of the family occupations—grape farming—with a passion that had been simmering, just waiting to ignite, all along during their restaurant careers: Wine. What could be more natural?

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Time Posted: May 22, 2025 at 7:00 AM Permalink to With their new Heleje brand, the Des Voignes family turns culinary dreams into dreamy contemporary wines Permalink
Randy Caparoso
 
May 19, 2025 | Randy Caparoso

Lodi grown wines shine at Historic Vineyard Society In the City tasting

Historic Vineyard Society sign marking Lodi's Marian's Vineyard, also recently named the 2025 Vineyard of the Year (for the entire state of California) by the California State Fair.

At the Historic Vineyard Society In the City tasting in San Francisco this past May 10, 2025, 42 wineries or brands presented a surprising variety of wines (not just Zinfandel!) sourced from some 65 vineyards certified by the non-profit organization known as the Historic Vineyard Society (a.k.a., HVS).

Since its founding in 2011, HVS has been fighting a seemingly uphill battle to preserve the state’s most historic vineyards. Sites going into wines more widely known, in the commercial wine world, as “Old Vine" wines...

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Time Posted: May 19, 2025 at 7:00 AM Permalink to Lodi grown wines shine at Historic Vineyard Society In the City tasting Permalink
Randy Caparoso
 
May 12, 2025 | Randy Caparoso

Michael McCay talks baby backs

McCay Cellars's Michael McCay barrel smoking his dry rub spiced baby back pork ribs.

Lodi is made for barbecue

The weather is warming up, folks, hitting the 80°s although in Lodi wine country we’re still enjoying those cool Delta breezes. Time to get out of the house, enjoy the rays of sun and cook up some barbecue!

For years now, Lodi winemaker/grower Mike McCay of McCay Cellars has made the perfecting of one of his personal specialties—dry rub seasoned smoked baby back pork ribs—one of his goals in life. I’ve had it enough times to know that he’s got it down. He can probably smoke ‘em in his sleep...

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Time Posted: May 12, 2025 at 7:00 AM Permalink to Michael McCay talks baby backs Permalink
Randy Caparoso
 
May 8, 2025 | Randy Caparoso

Lodi captures Best of Show and numerous Golds at State Fair, what happens in wine competitions and age-old thoughts on wine appreciation

Blind tasting of Lodi reds.

A Lodi wine is named #1

First, this just in: The 2025 California State Fair Commercial Wine Competition just announced that this year’s “Best of Show Red” is the 2023 St. Amant Winery Barbera, which happens to come from Lodi’s Jahant appellation. It is hard to achieve something as lofty as this—chosen as the best red wine out of thousands of others entered into a wine fair that happens to be the oldest (ongoing since 1854!) and perhaps most prestigious in the country.

Barbera, as it were, is a grape that yields wines of very high acidity, far higher than almost all other black skinned varieties, but in Lodi’s sun soaked environment this acidity finds just the right amount of balance with the grape’s varietal fruit character. That is, when grown in Lodi, the typically high acid of the grape has a way of embellishing the fruit profile of Barbera, rather than taking over with a sharp, palate-prickling tartness...

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Time Posted: May 8, 2025 at 7:00 AM Permalink to Lodi captures Best of Show and numerous Golds at State Fair, what happens in wine competitions and age-old thoughts on wine appreciation Permalink
Randy Caparoso
 
April 30, 2025 | Randy Caparoso

Exciting first for American grown wines—Bokisch’s Lo Xalet Cava (champagne style sparkler) crafted from authentic Spanish grapes

Bokisch Vineyards' Liz and Markus Bokisch introducing Lo Xalet, America's first cava style sparkler, at their Clements Hills-Lodi winery.

Hang on to your hats, Lodi wine lovers, because the latest innovation coming out of Lodi is a doozy: The 2023 Bokisch Vineyards Clements Hills-Lodi Lo Xalet ($60). This is the first champagne method sparkling wine in California grown and crafted in the style of Spain’s cava (the Spanish word for sparkling wine).

To be an authentic cava style sparkler, a wine has to be made from the traditional grapes of Spain’s Cava D.O. (Denominación de Origen, or “Designation of Origin”), perched along the Mediterranean Sea in Catalonia’s Penedès region, south of Barcelona. The required grapes indigenous to Cava form something of a “holy trinity”...

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Time Posted: Apr 30, 2025 at 7:00 AM Permalink to Exciting first for American grown wines—Bokisch’s Lo Xalet Cava (champagne style sparkler) crafted from authentic Spanish grapes Permalink
Randy Caparoso
 
April 28, 2025 | Randy Caparoso

A new Cerasuolo inspired rosé is already rocking the Lodi wine scene

A rosé that thinks it’s a red

Take a gander at this bottle of wine adorned with the plainest of labels, explaining exactly what it is: The 2024 Kirschenbloom Lodi Rosé ($24), produced and bottled by Sandlands Vineyards. However, looks can be deceiving. There is nothing plain or ordinary about this wine because it is already a game changer in the Lodi wine scene, perhaps in all of California.

First thing you notice through its clear glass is that it is a very rosy, an almost reddish colored rosé. I can tell you, after having tasting it, that it is dry as a bone, very lively and energetic with prickly fresh fruit acidity, and deep, deep in flavors suggesting peak season cherry with a touch of kitchen spice. The wine’s dryness, in fact, is only emphasized by the barest sensation of tannin, the firming sensory quality derived from skins and seeds of grapes normally found in red wines. 

It is a rosé, in fact, that tastes as light and zesty as any of today’s rosés, yet is a little richer than that. It has a sturdiness that forces you think of a red wine as you sip it... 

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Time Posted: Apr 28, 2025 at 7:00 AM Permalink to A new Cerasuolo inspired rosé is already rocking the Lodi wine scene Permalink
Randy Caparoso
 
April 24, 2025 | Randy Caparoso

The perfect spring chicken is cooked in white wine

Spring flowers in Michael David Winery's gardens.

Wine
stirs the spring, happiness
bursts through the earth like a plant…

—Pablo Neruda

One month into spring in 2025—finally, nights are less chilly, days are warmer, and the sun is up until past 7:30!

‘Tis also the season of transition at our tables. Our taste for red wines goes from heavier reds, such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Petite Sirah, to lighter reds such as Grenache, Cinsaut, Mission or easy drinking Zinfandels. Slowly but surely, we also find ourselves reaching for more cool, refreshing white wines, or maybe rosés...

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Time Posted: Apr 24, 2025 at 7:00 AM Permalink to The perfect spring chicken is cooked in white wine Permalink
Randy Caparoso
 
April 22, 2025 | Randy Caparoso

Dent de Lion is a new handcraft brand established for the best of all reasons—to save a special old Lodi vineyard

Zinfandel harvest in Dent de Lion Vineyard. Dent de Lion.

There is a brand new, handcraft local wine label here in Lodi, started up for all the right (at least in our book) reasons: To save a special old vineyard.

Make no mistake, old vineyards in Lodi need saving. Many of them are in grave danger of disappearing, mostly because sales of value priced wines are currently down, and big wineries are not renewing contracts with many of the families holding on to old, head trained vineyards planted to heritage grapes such as Zinfandel or Carignan...

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Time Posted: Apr 22, 2025 at 7:00 AM Permalink to Dent de Lion is a new handcraft brand established for the best of all reasons—to save a special old Lodi vineyard Permalink
Randy Caparoso
 
April 15, 2025 | Randy Caparoso

The recent 2025 Wine Market Council conference tackles the domestic wine industry's current setbacks head-on

Dr. Liz Thach, MW, President of the Wine Market Council.

This past April 2 at the 2025 Wine Market Council (WMC) Annual Research Conference and Members Meeting, held in the City of Napa, there was some illuminating discussions on the overall state of the American wine industry.

Some of the burning questions that were addressed included:

• What are the core reasons explaining the current lack of enthusiasm for wine on the part of consumers, reflected in the alarming downward trend in consumption over the past two years?
• How can the wine industry rebuild relevance with modern consumers?
• To what extent will impending tariffs further hamper the health of the domestic wine industry?
• What or where are the potential growth opportunities over the next few years?

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Time Posted: Apr 15, 2025 at 7:00 AM Permalink to The recent 2025 Wine Market Council conference tackles the domestic wine industry's current setbacks head-on Permalink
Contact

Lodi Wine Visitor Center
2545 West Turner Road Lodi, CA 95242
209.365.0621
Open: Daily 10:00am-5:00pm

Lodi Winegrape Commission
2545 West Turner Road, Lodi, CA 95242
209.367.4727
Open: Monday-Friday 8:00am-5:00pm

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