Story of an appellation—Part 3, Lodi's sister grapes and era of grape packers and cooperatives

Viticulturist/vintner Michael Klouda pruning Zinfandel originally planted during Prohibition, in 1929, located on the east side of Lodi's Mokelumne River AVA, under the shadow of the old Roma Winery watertower.

Sister grapes—Flame Tokay and Zinfandel

While virtually unknown outside of Lodi, pink-skinned Flame Tokay remains emblematic of the appellation because

1. It was the most widely planted variety of Vitis vinifera (i.e., European family of wine grapes) in Lodi for over 100 years.
2. Its suitability to Lodi's specific terroir taught generations of growers almost everything they needed to know about viticulture in Lodi...

Oct 13, 2023 at 8:00 AM Permalink

Story of an appellation—Part 2, origin of Lodi as a city and agricultural region

Chinese pickers with Mokelumne River-Lodi Flame Tokay around the turn of the last century. San Joaquin County Historical Museum.

The nineteenth century settlement near the banks of the Mokelumne River, couched between the California Delta and foothills of Sierra Nevada, would not become known as Lodi until 1874. It was originally called Mokelumne and officially established as a town in 1869 after a group of major landowners persuaded Central Pacific Railroad to make it a stop between the inland port cities of Stockton and Sacramento. 

Steps from the railway station, the site of the town's first buildings at the corner of present-day Sacramento and Pine Streets—where the landmark Lodi Arch would later be erected to commemorate the 1907 Tokay Carnival—was chosen because it sits on slightly higher ground, less prone to the Mokelumne River's frequent flooding...

Oct 10, 2023 at 8:00 AM Permalink

Story of an appellation—Part 1, the first stewards of the land that would become Lodi

2019 mural depicting Miwok tribal life, established over a span of 5,000 years, during the early 1800s. Amy Hosa and Linda Yamane, San Mateo County Historical Association.

We never tire of telling the story of the Lodi appellation. Why should we? It is a history as rich and compelling as the ultra-fine sandy loam soils—the deepest and most consistent, by far, in the entire state of California, for that matter the entire U.S.—surrounding the City of Lodi.

It is also a story of an appellation whose history goes as far back as any wine region, bar none, in California. Think about it: California became a state in 1850, at a time when the so-called forty-niners were pouring into the Sierra Nevada foothills from around the world to seek their fortune in gold...

Oct 3, 2023 at 8:00 AM Permalink

How the Autumnal Equinox whets our appetite and thirst for red wines

Vineyard tasting on the cusp of autumn, Lodi's Mokelumne River appellation.

I don't know if you noticed, but last Saturday summer quietly slipped out the proverbial backdoor, making way for fall of 2023. September 23 marked the Autumnal Equinox, when the sun veered over the equator, causing the day to last approximately the same amount of time as night. Henceforth, daylight hours will shrink by about a minute each day, until Winter Solstice (December 22), the shortest day of the year. 

The other day I heard someone describe this time of year as the "brrrr" period. There will be some times when we're not quite prepared for the sudden nip in the weather; especially at night, because most of us wait until we can't take the shivering under the sheets anymore, before reluctantly clicking on the heater.

Hate to say it, but 2023 The Old Farmers Almanac (which has been advising citizens since 1818) is giving the West Coast a dour prediction for this autumn: "Below normal temperatures with increasing precipitation." Keep those puff jackets and waterproof shoes handy...

Sep 28, 2023 at 8:00 AM Permalink

AVIVO's latest releases shine a light on regeneratively grown Lodi grapes

Vermentino regeneratively grown by Vino Farms in Lodi's Clements Hills AVA for AVIVO Wines.

Ridgely Evers—called "Ridge" by friends, family and colleagues—is excited by the two latest releases under his AVIVO Wines label:

• 2022 AVIVO Ledbetter Family Lodi White ($20), crafted entirely from Vermentino grapes grown on an ultra-sandy riverbend bench site in Lodi's Clements Hills appellation.

• 2021 AVIVO Ledbetter Family Lodi Red ($20), consisting almost entirely of Sangiovese (with a smattering of Syrah) grown in even deeper sandy loam soils typifying the river banks on the east side of Lodi's Mokelumne River AVA...

Sep 26, 2023 at 8:00 AM Permalink

What in the world are natural winemakers trying to do to us?

Craig Haarmeyer, a winemaker widely admired for his adamantly low intervention winemaking, sharing the love with Lodi grown Chenin blanc.

I recently came across an article entitled "What is natural wine?" in, of all places, National Geographic. Obviously, this publication is no longer just about science, geography, the experience of exotic places or the phenomenons of Mother Nature. Although there are many wines, when you think of it, that can be phenomenal, and many of the world's finest wines are very much reflections of their geography.

This particular article on natural wine was penned by Fiona Beckett, an iconic British wine and food journalist/book author. Beckett's definition of the "natural" movement occurring in the world of wines is as good as you'll ever find...

Sep 19, 2023 at 8:00 AM Permalink

All the reasons why you should celebrate International Grenache Day

Lodi grower Greg Manassero harvesting his old vine Mokelumne River AVA Grenache.

Today (September 15, 2023) is International Grenache Day. This morning, Lodi's Bokisch Vineyards, which specializes in Spanish grapes, has been sending out glad tidings: "Happy International Garnacha Day"—Garnacha being the Spanish word for Grenache.

Most likely, in fact, the Grenache grape originated in Spain—a working theory ampelographers (i.e., grapevine scientists) base upon the fact that there are more clonal variations of Grenache in Spain than anywhere else in Europe. Cultivars typically originate in the parts of the world where you find the most plant diversity...

Sep 15, 2023 at 3:00 PM Permalink

The art and zen of Lodi's old vines

Alluring colors, like windows into a long heroic history, etched into this rendering of old vine Flame Tokay, grown along the Mokelumne River in Lodi's Clements Hills.

Nestled within the captivating landscapes of California's past lie a series of artistic windows into history, encapsulating the phenomenon of vineyards that have become more than just sprigs in the ground, but more like permanent elements of the earth itself. 

Here in Lodi, we call that phenomenon "old vines," which are not like any ol' vineyards. More like birthplaces of dreams, cradles of creativity, or canvases for endless inspiration. (See our recent campaign, Save the Old)...

Sep 12, 2023 at 6:00 AM Permalink

The new, lighter, sharply terroir-driven styles of Lodi reds ideal for September sipping

Toasting with a lighter style red wine—zestier in natural acidity, lower than 12% alcohol—crafted by Lorenza from classic Lodi grapes.

Thank you for your wine, California
Thank you for your sweet and bitter fruits
—Keith Richards/Mick Jagger (The Rolling Stones)

Strange and numerous fruits have been a thing in Lodi for longer than most people can remember. The region's most widely planted grape over most of the past century, for instance, was a variety called Flame Tokay. There isn't even a Wikipedia page for Flame Tokay, despite the fact that it was Flame Tokay that originally brought wealth to the City of Lodi during the turn of the last century.

In its wisdom, UC Davis' Foundation Plant Services does have a page on Flame Tokay, identifying its original moniker as a Vitis vinifera (i.e., belonging to the classic European family of wine grapes) as Ahmeur bou Ahmeur. That should tell you Lodi growers aren't crazy. Flame Tokay exists, even if you don't know it. 

So do over 130 other grape varieties commercially grown and sold in Lodi, as we speak...

Sep 5, 2023 at 8:00 AM Permalink

The first full week of the 2023 harvest in Lodi wine country

Fiano harvest, Fernow Ranch on the east side of the Mokelumne River-Lodi AVA.

Mother Nature can be cruel. Sometimes deadly; yet often, kind and benevolent.

If you take the word of vintners and growers who have picking grapes over the past week—pretty much the start of the 2023 harvest—lately Mother Nature has been very kind. The proof, we are seeing, is already in the pudding...

Sep 1, 2023 at 8:00 AM Permalink