Letters from Lodi
An insightful and objective look at viticulture and winemaking from the Lodi
Appellation and the growers and vintners behind these crafts. Told from the
perspective of multi-award winning wine journalist, Randy Caparoso.
The young guns of Lodi wine
Guest post by Anna Delgado
Let's welcome guest columnist Anna Delgado, who will introduce us to three outstanding "young guns" in the Lodi wine scene: A head winemaker (Marilia Nimis-Schrader), a brilliant up-and-coming winemaker (Jesus Aleman), and a promising sommelier (Jacob Weisman).
We first introduced Anna Delgado this past July in a post co-written by her entitled Do not talk about what younger consumers think about wine unless you're under 30. Ms. Delgado, who is 26 years old, knows more than a thing or two: Not just about the tastes of other 20-somethings but also that of consumers of all ages⏤she speaks with them on nearly a daily basis as a full-timer at the Lodi Wine Visitor Center.
This past harvest season Delgado almost doubled her working hours (who needs sleep when you're young and energetic?) working as a "cellar rat" at Lodi's St. Amant Winery, doing everything from crushing grapes (in some instances, with her bare feet) to filling, moving and topping barrels...
Continue »Our favorite Lodi wine country photos of the year (January through July)
To me, Lodi wine country is like a gigantic canvas for Mother Nature: There is no end to the beauty capturable, to some extent (although it's always more compelling seen through your own eyes!), by a camera.
The pictures tell a story; more often than not, more vividly than how it can be described in words. So here are some of our photographic stories of the past year. Hope you enjoy them as much as we do!
Continue »Wine tasting is easy
First things first.
You may have heard, or maybe just assumed, that appreciating wine is complicated. That it takes an "expert" to truly understand and enjoy wines. I have just one word to say about that: Untrue. Anyone who tells you wine is complicated has no idea what he or she is talking about.
Let me tell you why. Where, in fact, do you find the most people happily consuming wine like there's no tomorrow? People who drink wine as an everyday beverage, like we do coffee or Diet Coke? If you guessed Europe⏤countries such as France, Italy, Spain and others nearby⏤you have, of course, guessed correctly. Most people know that this is where wine was invented. Do you think the gazillion wine lovers in those countries had to take wine courses, do deep reading or applied themselves to the "mastery" of wine knowledge in order to appreciate wines? Of course not!
Continue »Lodi wine country Thanksgiving recipes and wines
'Tis the season for family traditions, starting with Thanksgiving.
Over the past decade and a half a number of local Lodi vintners have contributed favorite family recipes served, almost religiously, at each and every Thanksgiving celebration.
This year we are recapping some of the more interesting recipes, along with thoughts on ideal Lodi grown wines for the dishes. Happy holidays!
Continue »Looking at vintage photographs of Lodi is like strolling through its past
There is an old saying I never quite understood, which goes: "The past is a place to learn from, not to live in."
Yes, of course, we learn from the past, especially mistakes, big and small. But in many places of the world, we also live in the past. Like people do in Florence, Italy. I distinctly remember being struck by that once, in the late 1980s, when stumbling into the Palazzo della Signoria and suddenly being hit in the head by the real-life, bigger than life vision of Michelangelo's David, created in 1501-1504, in all its naked glory...
Continue »What is Lodi terroir? (Part 5, Where to find terroir focused Lodi wines)
Continued from What is Lodi terroir? (Part 4, How terroir focused wines are made)
Lodi grown wines that prioritize sensory qualities expressing terroir or "sense of place"—be it a specific vineyard or an appellation or sub-appellation (i.e., an AVA within an AVA)—over varietal character or brand style are now more numerous than you may think.
For the most part, terroir focused producers are on the small, artisanal side, with rare exceptions—such as the nationally distributed Mettler Family Vineyards and Klinker Brick Winery brands, which produce handcraft, native yeast fermented, neutral oak aged Zinfandels as a way of showing off historic old vine properties, in stark contrast from their commercial style releases...
Continue »What is Lodi terroir? (Part 4, How terroir focused wines are made)
Continued from What is Lodi terroir? (part 3, Soil and topography)
The difference between commercial and terroir focused styles of varietals
Terroir focused wines are wines that are meant to taste like the vineyards or regions where they are grown more than anything else. Commercial style wines, on the other hand, are produced primarily to express...
Continue »What is Lodi terroir? (Part 3, Soil and topography)
Continued from What is Lodi terroir? (Part 2, Mediterranean climate)
In August 2006, the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) approved the usage of seven new American Viticultural Areas (a.k.a. AVAs) falling within the broader Lodi AVA (originally recognized in 1986):
• Alta Mesa
• Borden Ranch
• Clements Hills
• Cosumnes River
• Jahant
• Mokelumne River
• Sloughhouse
What is Lodi terroir? (part 2: Mediterranean Climate)
Continued from What is Lodi terroir? (Part 1, Definition)
Impact of Delta breezes on Lodi terroir
Because it falls within a watershed immediately east of the Sacramento-San Joaquin River Delta draining directly into San Pablo Bay (the northern extension of San Francisco Bay), the terroir of entire Lodi Viticultural Area in terms of climate is defined as "Mediterranean," a climate classification also comparable to much of the coastal wine regions of California.
Mediterranean climate is characterized by dry summers and mild, wet winters typical of wine regions located 30 to 45 degrees north or south of the equator. This includes, of course, almost all the wine regions along the Mediterranean Basin, as well as much of the California Coast between the North Coast and Central Coast AVAs...
Continue »What is Lodi terroir? (part 1, Definition)
What is terroir?
Out of respect for this concept's French origin, I prefer to italicize the word, although you don't have to, since it's now co-opted into the English language like many other French words (such as élevage, café, chef, sommelier, apéritif, petite, haute couture, de rigueur, et al.).
But be careful how you use it. Merriam-Webster, for instance, simply defines terroir as a "combination of factors including soil, climate, and sunlight that gives wine grapes their distinctive character." That's true, but it's a lot more than that...
Continue »