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Letters from Lodi

An insightful and objective look at viticulture and winemaking from the Lodi
Appellation and the growers and vintners behind these crafts. Told from the
perspective of multi-award winning wine journalist, Randy Caparoso.

Randy Caparoso
 
July 6, 2023 | Randy Caparoso

Lorenza's sublime, new style of red made from Lodi's oldest vineyard

Melinda Kearney among ancient Cinsaut vines in Bechthold Vineyard, source of Lorenza's groundbreaking style of red.

Two months ago, at a dinner in Lodi where a guest winemaker from Italy named Cristiana Tiberio was showing off her world renowned Cerasuolo D'Abruzzo Rosé, I watched Lorenza Wine winemaker/owner Melinda Kearney, sitting across from me at the table, going through the usual studious tasting motions. After her first sip, her eyes looked like they were emitting superhero laser beams, and then a meditative smile took over her face, lasting the rest of the entire night...

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Time Posted: Jul 6, 2023 at 2:00 PM Permalink to Lorenza's sublime, new style of red made from Lodi's oldest vineyard Permalink
Randy Caparoso
 
July 3, 2023 | Randy Caparoso

2023 California State Fair has a surprise Best Zinfandel of California winner from Lodi

Mark Chandler: Lodi grower/winery owner and California State Fair Commercial Wine Competition Chief Judge.

Here's a good story: For the past eight years Mark Chandler—the former Executive Director of Lodi Winegrape Commission (1991-2011) as well a past two-times Mayor of the City of Lodi—has been serving as Chief Judge of the California State Fair Commercial Wine Competition, the state's longest running professional wine judging (started in 1854!).

The Chief Judge, as it is, is also a Lodi region grape grower, and has recently started up his own wine brand, Burlington Chandler Wines, with his wife Jan Burlington Chandler and his son Dave Chandler.

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Time Posted: Jul 3, 2023 at 8:00 AM Permalink to 2023 California State Fair has a surprise Best Zinfandel of California winner from Lodi Permalink
Randy Caparoso
 
June 26, 2023 | Randy Caparoso

Global encompassing The Old Vine Registry launches, with 53 Lodi AVA vineyards

Marian's Vineyard Zinfandel, quintessential Lodi AVA old vines planted in 1901.

Today (June 26, 2023) marks the official launch of The Old Vine Registry (re oldvineregistry.org). This is a big deal. As it states on its home page, The Old Vine Registry is "the world’s first crowd-sourced global database of living historic vineyard sites." Its goal, "to create the world’s most authoritative record of these vineyards in the hopes that through greater awareness and attention these vineyards and the wines they produce will survive and thrive."

In this morning's internationally broadcasted webinar announcing the website's debut, renowned British author and Master of Wine Jancis Robinson remarked on how The Old Vine Registry grew "out of an Excel spreadsheet started 13 years ago, and grew and grew until it became impossible to manage... we decided it should have its own website—one that is free and open to all, and can continue to grow organically..."

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Time Posted: Jun 26, 2023 at 8:00 AM Permalink to Global encompassing The Old Vine Registry launches, with 53 Lodi AVA vineyards Permalink
Randy Caparoso
 
June 22, 2023 | Randy Caparoso

Origins of Tempranillo in Spain and California, and the varietal's pervasive Lodi styles

Tempranillo clusters in Bokisch's Las Cerezas Vineyard in Lodi's Mokelumne River appellation.

A consummate Mediterranean varietal

While still a distinct minority taste, American grown bottlings of Spanish grapes have carved out a modest niche in the domestic market over the past ten, twenty years. In Lodi, even more so: Local wineries are currently producing more bottlings of, say, Albariño and Tempranillo than Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Why? Because grapes of Spanish origin have found a natural home in Lodi's Mediterranean climate zone. Zinfandel, for instance, is a grape that originated in Europe's Mediterranean Basin (Croatia and Southern Italy, to be specific), and therefore is a grape that absolutely loves Lodi's bright sun and sandy soils. Ergo, there is far more Zinfandel grown in Lodi than in any other region in California...

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Time Posted: Jun 22, 2023 at 8:00 AM Permalink to Origins of Tempranillo in Spain and California, and the varietal's pervasive Lodi styles Permalink
Randy Caparoso
 
June 19, 2023 | Randy Caparoso

Discerning the pervasive styles of Lodi Albariño

Albariño clusters in the Bokisch family's Las Cerezas Vineyard, Mokelumne River-Lodi AVA.

Some Lodi Albariño history

Back around 2005 when Kyle and Jorja Lerner were first drawing up plans to establish their Harney Lane Winery on the Lodi property that their family, a branch of the Mettlers, had been farming since 1899, they approached Jorja's parents George and Kathy Mettler with the proposal.

The elder Mettlers gave their okay, but Kathy had one stipulation: "You have to make Albariño"—referring to the white wine grape of Spanish origins to which Kathy had taken a strong liking...

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Time Posted: Jun 19, 2023 at 7:00 AM Permalink to Discerning the pervasive styles of Lodi Albariño Permalink
Randy Caparoso
 
June 13, 2023 | Randy Caparoso

Lodi's McCay Cellars explores the wilder, meatier, savory side of dry rosé

McCay Cellars owner/grower/winemaker Mike McCay showing his current line-up of dry rosés.

Thirteen years ago Mike McCay produced his first dry rosé from Lodi-grown Grenache grapes under his McCay Cellars label. 

That wasn't long ago, but at that time the vast majority of consumers were still in their Chardonnay or White Zinfandel stage. If you drank red Lodi wines, you mostly drank overly fruited or oaky Zinfandel. The wine industry, if anything, has always aimed to please, but it's only been recently that consumers have been pleased by dry style rosés. Thirteen years ago, most vintners couldn't give those wines away.

So what's a rosé-crazy winemaker to do, now that dry rosé has become such a popular wine category? If you're Mike McCay, you start producing five or six different rosés each year. This, mind you, is not normal. Even giant sized wineries in Southern France—where more dry rosés are grown, produced, sold and consumed than anywhere else in the world—typically bottle just one brand-defining rosé...

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Time Posted: Jun 13, 2023 at 8:00 AM Permalink to Lodi's McCay Cellars explores the wilder, meatier, savory side of dry rosé Permalink
Randy Caparoso
 
June 9, 2023 | Randy Caparoso

La Belle Nue, more than a contemporary style rosé, also the story of one Millennial's return home to spotlight her Lodi community

La Belle Nue proprietor Jacylyn Stokes among her family's grapevines, which she also manages.

Once upon a time, Jacylyn Stokes bade farewell to her home and family in Lodi. This only made her eventual return all the more fulfilling.

"I am a young Millennial and female," Stokes declared, last week while sitting at an outdoor tasting table at Consumnes River Farm, where her bottles of La Belle Nue Rosé are sold. 

"La Belle Nue tells my story, growing up as part of a Lodi farming family, traveling all over the world, then living in France, and how I brought this story back home to Lodi... 

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Time Posted: Jun 9, 2023 at 8:00 AM Permalink to La Belle Nue, more than a contemporary style rosé, also the story of one Millennial's return home to spotlight her Lodi community Permalink
Randy Caparoso
 
June 6, 2023 | Randy Caparoso

The 9,000-year history of Vitis vinifera, emerging from the genetic mixture of domesticated and wild grapes

Ancient Mediterranean winery: Artist's rendering (top) of a large volume Phoenician winemaking facility, dated back over 2,600 years ago, recently excavated in Lebanon.

Lodi is a warm climate winegrowing region. We usually use the term "Mediterranean Climate" to describe Lodi's climate because, to begin with, the Mediterranean Basin itself (stretching from Spain and Southern France through Italy, Greece and the Middle East) is a vast winegrowing region, producing countless wines of amazing quality and diversity. If a Mediterranean climate was always good enough for the ancient wine regions encircling the Mediterreanean Sea, it certainly is good enough for a region like Lodi...

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Time Posted: Jun 6, 2023 at 1:00 PM Permalink to The 9,000-year history of Vitis vinifera, emerging from the genetic mixture of domesticated and wild grapes Permalink
Randy Caparoso
 
May 31, 2023 | Randy Caparoso

Lodi and Zinfandel like two ships passing in the night, perfect for summer barbecues!

Lodi Zinfandel specialist Mike McCay serving up his steel drum smoked, dry rub spiced baby back ribs.

June 21 marks 2023's first day of summer, but we can already feel the season in the air when many of our thoughts turn to... barbecue!

We've posted many a write-up on this food group for a couple of reasons: 1) who doesn't love barbecue when the weather gets warm? and 2) the perfect wine for barbecue happens to be made from the grape for which the Lodi wine region is best known—Zinfandel.

First, about Zinfandel—primarily, that is, red Zinfandel, although there are a number of good, dry Zinfandel rosés now being made—as the perfect barbecue wine: We have enjoyed many different wines with barbecues, from smoked dry rub baby back ribs to pulled pork in zesty tomato barbecue sauces, grilled marinated chicken, Korean style short ribs, teriyaki beef and more. After all is said in done, it is Zinfandel that usually tastes the best with almost all the variations of barbecue...

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Time Posted: May 31, 2023 at 11:00 AM Permalink to Lodi and Zinfandel like two ships passing in the night, perfect for summer barbecues! Permalink
Randy Caparoso
 
May 26, 2023 | Randy Caparoso

Fun photo album of this past weekend's 2023 Lodi Wine Experience

Lodi wine lovers at the 2023 Lodi Wine Experience in Lodi Lake Park.

The Lodi Wine Experience has come and gone, this past May 19-20, 2023. This, of course, was the yearly event formerly known as Lodi ZinFest, which went on hiatus after 2019 due to public health concerns.

The 2023 celebration at Lodi Lake Park began this past Friday night with a Signature Dinner: a joyful gathering of 500 vintners and wine lovers under two large tents under the stars, sipping the region's finest wines with farm-to-table cuisine. Weather and temperatures were perfecto, and everyone danced the night away to the irresistible rhythms of live music...

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Time Posted: May 26, 2023 at 8:00 AM Permalink to Fun photo album of this past weekend's 2023 Lodi Wine Experience Permalink
Contact

Lodi Wine Visitor Center
2545 West Turner Road Lodi, CA 95242
209.365.0621
Open: Daily 10:00am-5:00pm

Lodi Winegrape Commission
2545 West Turner Road, Lodi, CA 95242
209.367.4727
Open: Monday-Friday 8:00am-5:00pm

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