Letters from Lodi
An insightful and objective look at viticulture and winemaking from the Lodi
Appellation and the growers and vintners behind these crafts. Told from the
perspective of multi-award winning wine journalist, Randy Caparoso.
Lodi's San Joaquin Series Soil - Exploring the Jahant, Cosumnes River, and Alta Mesa Viticultural Areas
Reddish sandy/clay loam soil and blue oak characteristic of Lodi's Jahant AVA along Liberty Rd.
As we conclude our California Wine Month journey through Lodi's wine history, we explore the three remaining sub-appellations that complete the region's diverse tapestry: Jahant, Cosumnes River, and Alta Mesa AVAs.
Located between the Sacramento-San Joaquin River Delta to the west and the eastern hillside appellations, these three regions share a unique common denominator: variations of California's official state soil, the San Joaquin series. Characterized by shallow sandy clay loam over hardpan layers, these soils initially seemed less ideal for viticulture than Lodi's deep sandy plains. However, innovative farming families in the 1980s discovered that deep ripping techniques could transform these terraced floodplains into exceptional wine-growing terrain.
From the cool, fog-influenced vineyards of Jahant and Cosumnes River to the "high table" mesa topography of Alta Mesa, these appellations showcase how Lodi growers turned agricultural challenges into opportunities, establishing diverse plantings that range from classic Cabernet Sauvignon to Portuguese Port varieties. In this final exploration, originally authored by wine journalist Randy Caparoso, discover how these three AVAs complete the story of Lodi's seven nested appellations.
Continue »Lodi's Hillside Appellations: Exploring the Clements Hills, Borden Ranch, and Sloughhouse Viticultural Areas
Cobbled, orangy-red clay hillside vineyard typifying Lodi vineyards in the Borden Ranch AVA
Continuing our California Wine Month journey through Lodi's wine history, we venture east from the flat, sandy land of the Mokelumne River AVA into dramatically different terrain. Rising into rolling hills of 150 to 590 feet elevation, three distinct sub-appellations showcase how Lodi's expansion over the past 25 years has been driven by the discovery of exceptional hillside terroir.
The Clements Hills, Borden Ranch, and Sloughhouse AVAs represent a striking contrast to Lodi's historic core, featuring ancient volcanic clay soils, varied topography, and microclimates that have proven ideal for premium wine production. From the red clay loams that produce intensely colored Cabernet Sauvignon to the cobbled hillsides perfect for Spanish and Rhône varietals, these eastern appellations demonstrate why Lodi needed seven distinct sub-AVAs to fully capture its diverse winemaking potential.
In this exploration, originally authored by wine journalist Randy Caparoso, discover how these hillside regions became the foundation for Lodi's growth from 42,000 acres in 1986 to over 110,000 acres today.
Continue »Mokelumne River AVA: Exploring Lodi's Largest and Most Historic Viticultural Area
Classic plus-100-year-old Zinfandel growing on its own natural roots in deep, rich yet porous, sand dune-like soil typifying much of the east side of the Mokelumne River-Lodi AVA
As we continue our journey through Lodi's wine history during California Wine Month, we turn our focus to the largest and most historic of the region's seven nested sub-appellations: the Mokelumne River AVA.
Spanning an impressive 85,700 acres with over 40,000 acres of planted wine grapes, this viticultural area represents the historic heart of Lodi winemaking and houses nearly all of the region's wine production facilities. Named for the river that flows from the Sierra Nevada through the appellation—originally derived from the Miwok phrase meaning "the place of the fish net"—the Mokelumne River AVA tells the story of California viticulture itself.
Continue »Lodi Wine History: The Making of California's Most Dynamic Wine Region
Kerne Erickson's artistic vision of the bucolic Lodi AVA and the region's signature, deep-rooted valley oak, native to the appellation's deep, rich sandy loam soils
As we celebrate California Wine Month this September, there's no better time to dive into the rich history of grape growing and wine production in one of the state's most significant appellations.
The Lodi American Viticultural Area stands as a testament to the evolution of California winemaking, transforming from a single designation in 1986 to a complex system of seven nested sub-appellations by 2006. This comprehensive exploration, originally authored by renowned wine journalist Randy Caparoso, traces the fascinating journey of how Lodi earned federal recognition as an AVA and subsequently subdivided into distinct terroir-driven regions.
From the initial 85,000-acre appellation to the sophisticated understanding of microclimates that led to the Mokelumne River, Clements Hills, and five other sub-AVAs, this is the story of American viticulture's commitment to expressing the unique characteristics of place through wine.
Continue »Beat the Heat: Why Lodi's Delta Breeze Makes Summer Wine Tasting Magical
Morning light illuminates Lodi's picturesque vineyards, where Mediterranean climate and Delta Breeze cooling create distinctive terroir for exceptional winegrowing.
Summer in Lodi delivers classic California sunshine – those bright, warm days that ripen grapes to perfection and send wine lovers seeking shade. But here's Lodi's secret weapon: the Delta Breeze.
Every day beginning in the late afternoon, cool air travels inland from the San Francisco Bay, following a vast network of waterways that play a key role in defining the wine country’s climate and character.
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Oh lord, a blog from Lodi—the 2025 farewell
Harvest morning in Mokelumne River-Lodi's Abba Vineyard, planted to Syrah.
Farewell by Randy Caparoso
Oh lord, a blog from Lodi was the title of the very first blog posted on the Lodi Wine page in August 2010, written by yours truly. Over 1,200 posts later, I think it is fitting that this should be the title of my very last post, as I will departing Lodi wine country in July of 2025.
First, I’d like to thank all the region’s growers and vintners who have welcomed me into their community these past fifteen years. But also first, I need to thank you, Lodi Wine’s dear and patient readers who have indulged in this site’s continuous flights and forays into viticulture and vinification, farmers, winemakers and all the characters peppering the region’s past and present, the seemingly endless variety of grapes and equally varied wines, almost every iota of the dirt, topography, climate and natural or human circumstances—each and everything that has distinguished the Lodi appellation from any other in the world. The goal has always been differentiation, the gist of every post appearing on this page...
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Ingredients listings and key taste components found in commercial wines
Barrel tasting dark, rich, vividly flavorful Cabernet Sauvignon.
Sugar and spice and all that’s nice, as the old nursery rhyme goes.
There are lots of nice things in wine, although there are very few wineries that actually print “Ingredients”—that is, additions dropped on top of natural components of wines during the winemaking process—on back labels; ostensibly, because it is felt by most of the industry that most consumers might be shocked if they find out what actually ends up in commercial grade wine. If you are not required to list everything going into a bottle (a circumstance many consumer advocates think should be changed), why do it?
I was at one Sonoma County winery’s tasting room just last week, tasting the brand’s signature estate grown Cabernet Sauvignon. The owner explained that over the years she has had problems impressing upon consumers that her grapes are certified organic and the fact that her wines are made in the lowest interventionist way possible (that is, without compromizing quality or terroir expression). So she borrowed the idea of printing ingredients on her back label from another winery that specializes in minimal intervention wine. This is the exact wording found on her bottlings...
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The new light (and chillable) red wine paradigm
The 2023 Christina's Outlier, the Grenache-based Lodi grown red that now stands as the epitome of the new "light and chillable" red wine paradigm.
Last week, Dr. Stephanie Bolton—Lodi Winegrape Commission’s Director of Grower Education and Sustainability—organized what she called a “Light, Chillable Red Wine Rendezvous,” attended by a dozen an a half local vintners. Why? Because Bolton truly believes this style of wine is the wave of the future, thus calling for serious discussion.
In fact, some of the vintners who attended are already reporting market success with this style of red wine. It is an emerging wine category that may very well help drag the American wine industry out of its current state of doldrums...
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How AVAs and vineyard designations on labels increase your enjoyment of wines
Boots in dusty, ultra-fine grained sandy loam defining much of the Lodi AVA, making a direct impact on the sensory qualities of the region's wines.
Let’s start with two questions:
1. What is an AVA?
2. Why are AVAs important?
AVA stands for American Viticultural Area; a concept first established in 1980 by the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms, or ATF, to recognize places of origins of American wines, which appear on wine labels.
At that time, the ATF—an independent bureau within the United States Department of the Treasury—began receiving and handling petitions for AVAs from regional wine or grape growing organizations across the country. In January 2003, under the provisions of the Homeland Security Act of 2002, the ATF was reorganized and the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) was created to oversee the process of defining officially recognized American Viticultural Areas...
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Are own-rooted grapevines superior to grapevines grafted on rootstocks?
Two east side Mokelumne River-Lodi Zinfandel specimens over 100 years old: (left) from Kirschenmann Vineyard planted on its own natural roots; (right) Steacy Vineyard planted on St.George rootstocks.
When wine buffs talk about the great wines of the world, they often talk about terroir, an important term of French origin that entails the natural environmental factors—such as climate, soil, topography, aspect, elevation, latitude, etc.—that have a direct effect on grapevine growth, and ultimately on the taste of wines. While terroir is more than about natural conditions—the hand of man also plays a big part of winegrowing—soil plays a crucial role.
Because the closest part of any plant to the ground is its root system, another hot topic of discussion when it comes to grapevines is rootstocks. That is to say, the rooting habits of specifically chosen rootstock selections that might be favorable to a site's soil, or to meet specific objectives such as drought tolerance, disease and pest resistance, grapevine vigor, canopy growth, a targeted average cluster weight, and a host of other concerns...
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