Global encompassing The Old Vine Registry launches, with 53 Lodi AVA vineyards

ByRandy Caparoso
Gnarled grapevine in Lodi vineyard with support stake and overcast sky.
Marian’s Vineyard Zinfandel, quintessential Lodi AVA old vines planted in 1901.

Today (June 26, 2023) marks the official launch of The Old Vine Registry (re oldvineregistry.org). This is a big deal. As it states on its home page, The Old Vine Registry is “the world’s first crowd-sourced global database of living historic vineyard sites.” Its goal, “to create the world’s most authoritative record of these vineyards in the hopes that through greater awareness and attention these vineyards and the wines they produce will survive and thrive.”

In this morning’s internationally broadcasted webinar announcing the website’s debut, renowned British author and Master of Wine Jancis Robinson remarked on how The Old Vine Registry grew “out of an Excel spreadsheet started 13 years ago, and grew and grew until it became impossible to manage… we decided it should have its own website—one that is free and open to all, and can continue to grow organically.”

Promotional banner for The Old Vine Conference focusing on global wine movement and online registration.
Graphic for the UK-based Old Vine Conference, from which The Old Vine Registry has evolved.

Alder Yarrow, the author of the internationally followed Vinography and JancisRobinson.com contributor, was tasked with organizing The Old Vine Registry site. In the webinar Yarrow commented, “We have about 2,200 records of old vine vineyards… there should be another 10,000 from around the world added to the Registry by the time we’re done.” Yarrow explained that “old vine” according to The Old Vine Registry is defined as vineyards at least 35 years or older—”35 years because that’s when vineyards are typically torn out and replanted.”

The Old Vine Registry is also an outgrowth of the U.K.-based The Old Vine Conference, a campaign undertaken to promote old vines around the world over the past two years. One of the conference co-founders Sarah Abbot MW remarked this morning that old vines are “living lessons of how we can farm wines more sustainably in the future,” citing studies that conclusively demonstrate how old vines “are better able to withstand drought and heat stress and give better quality wines.”

JancisRobinson.com senior editor Tamlyn Currin added, “One of the goals is to open up discussions around the world on how to plant young vineyards that are capable of growing older.” The Old Vine Registry, says Abbot, “gives old vines a home… It is not just a list, it also has links to sites where you can find the wines made from these vineyards [primarily on wine-searcher.com], essentially making it possible to ‘drink the vineyard.'”

During a visit to Lodi past April 2023: The renowned journalist/author Jancis Robinson MW with Nick Lander (restaurant critic for London’s Financial Times) in Mokelumne River-Lodi AVA’s Kirschenmann Vineyard (ancient vine Zinfandel planted in 1915).

The goals cited by these minds behind The Old Vine Registry is simpatico with Lodi‘s own Save the Old movement, launched three years ago to drum up awareness and appreciation of Lodi’s old vines. Whereas as the Old Vine Registry lists vineyards 35 years or older, in Lodi we consider vineyards with original plantings at least 50 years old to be “old vine”—in alignment with California’s nonprofit Historic Vineyard Society. As the Lodi growers write on their own Save the Old page:

Here in Lodi, California, old vines are living, breathing remnants of our winegrowing history; silent reminders that our roots in farming run deep… Generation after generation, our growers have cared for thousands of acres of these old, gnarly, 50-, 75-, 100-plus-year-old vines out of love and nostalgia. Due to their labor of love, Lodi is indisputably home to California’s highest concentration of own-rooted, old vine vineyards—a fact which is a source of great pride among our community.

But these old vine vineyards are in danger, and not only in Lodi. Each year in California, hundreds of acres of old vine vineyards are ripped out. Increasing costs of vineyard management, low yields, urban developments, and a diminishing return (i.e. scant prices) is forcing many growers to replace beloved vineyards with rows of younger, more productive vines.

Illustration of a gnarled, leafless tree with humorous text about ripping it out or being crazy.

Graphics from Lodi’s Save the Old movement.

These living artifacts of agricultural history are disappearing, one by one. And once they’re gone, they’re gone. And so are the special wines made from those vineyards. As special as they are, we believe these old vine vineyards deserve to stay in the ground. Our mission is simple: preserve Lodi’s historical vineyards for generations to come. And in doing so, inspire a movement among like-minded people throughout the winegrowing regions of California and beyond.

But we can’t save these vineyards alone. We need someone like you to care as much as we do; to seek out these vineyards and the wines that are made from them; to tell their stories and advocate for their preservation.

As The Old Vine Registry puts it:

… Saving old vines is not a romantic endeavour, it is addressing a planetary crisis… Old vines carry the secrets of survival and have adapted to stress over decades and even centuries. They are often more resilient in times of drought and heatwave, they have learnt to live with or develop immunity to pests and diseases, they have survived extreme weather events.

Old vines are also much more adapted to the soils they’re planted in and therefore more resilient. Unlike young vines, they don’t need irrigating and they need less, if any, chemical inputs to survive. Old vineyards are also often full of clonal diversity and rare varieties. The genes of old vines can be studied, and old-vine material can be propagated for more resilient young vines.

Healthy grapevine in Lodi vineyard with ripe grapes in a yellow container.

Recent harvest of Flame Tokay vine in Lodi’s venerated Royal Tee Vineyard, planted in 1889.

In addition, these big, gnarly vines are significant reservoirs of biomass and carbon; they play vital roles in local hydrological cycles; their old, deep-and-wide root networks are inextricably bound up with and connected to the mycorrhizal networks that sustain, feed and protect our soils. Old vines are also linked to social sustainability in terms of retaining, preserving, celebrating, recognising, respecting and dignifying tradition, old wisdom, handed-down knowledge, experience and the people who are an integral part of that.

In respect to the question of how to protect and save old vines, The Old Vine Registry’s proposal is, as they put it, “blunt”… the “answer is to monetize.” Among The Old Vine Registry organization’s suggestions:

Old vines cost more. They also have more value. We need to value old-vine wine more than we do. Governments need to stop funding rip-out schemes that replace older vines with young vines that need irrigating for many years (irrigation systems which may not be viable in the future). Governments, businesses, organisations and academic institutions need to fund protection schemes, tax-break incentives, supportive education and training for winegrowers, trials and research. Wine producers need to pay more for old-vine grapes; importers, distributors, retailers and consumers need to all be willing to pay more for old-vine wines.

Our hope is that The Old Vine Registry will build a community of people and places, and energise a global ecosystem that sets this in motion.

Lodi vineyards listed on The Old Vine Registry

While The Old Vine Registry’s listing is meant to be fluid and continuously updated, out of the 349 American vineyards recognized on the initial list, 53 of these vineyards fall in the Lodi AVA (i.e., American Viticultural Area).

The Lodi appellation vineyards currently listed by The Old Vine Registry (photos of most of the vineyards above each listing):

Close-up of ripe dark purple winegrapes hanging on a vine in Lodi wine country.
Bechthold Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Cinsaut, planted 1886.
Vineyard in Lodi with grapevines, trees, and a sunset sky, showcasing prime winegrape growing conditions.
Bishofberger Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Carignan, planted 1936.
Close-up of a grapevine trunk and green leaves in a vineyard during daytime.
Bonotto Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1930s.
Lodi winegrape vineyard with lush green vines and a dirt path under a clear sky.
Brovelli Ranch, Jahant AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1954.
Workers harvest ripe grapes in a vineyard with large bins for wine production.
Cemetery Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted early 1980s.
Gnarled, leafless grapevines in a foggy vineyard landscape in Lodi, California.
Charlie Lewis Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1903.
Vineyard with large tree and sign for Church Block wine in Lodi, California at sunset.
Church Block, Mokelumne River AVA—Carignan, Petite Sirah, Alicante Bouschet and Zinfandel, planted 1930s.
Vineyard with pruned grapevines in Lodi, California under a clear blue sky.
Dairy Vineyard (a.k.a., Schmiedt Ranch), Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1918.
Vineyard rows in Lodi at sunset with the sun setting behind the grapevines.
DeLuca Vineyard, Clements Hills AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1961.
Vast vineyard in Lodi with rows of grapevines under a blue sky with clouds.
Dogtown Vineyard, Clements Hills AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1944.
Workers harvesting wine grapes in Lodi vineyard at sunset with tractor and lush vines.
Faith Vineyard (a.k.a., Lot 13 Vineyard), Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1918.
Vineyard with pruned grapevines and a barn in Lodi, California, under a cloudy sky.
Fathom Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1924 to 1990.
Pruned winegrape vines in Lodi, California, under a clear blue sky, showcasing vineyard management practices.
Fire Mountain Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1937 to 1950s.
Vineyard in Lodi with grapevines at sunset, showcasing lush foliage and rows of grape plants ready for harvest.
Giorgi/Ferrari Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1920s.
Grapevine vineyard in Lodi with leafless vines and green grass, under a cloudy sky.
Grandpa Bill Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1955.
Certified Green sign at Lodi vineyards promoting sustainable winegrowing practices.
Hatterle Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1930.
Lodi winegrape vineyard with lush green vines under a clear blue sky.
HGM Ranch, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1968.
Vineyard with grapevines and a sign for Natushas Vineyard in Lodi, California, during sunset.
Katushas’ Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1915.
Vineyard rows in Lodi, California, under a partly cloudy sky, showcasing healthy grapevines for wine production.
Kirschenmann Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1915.
Grapevine vineyard in Lodi with gnarled vines and lush green leaves under a partly cloudy sky.
Lizzy James Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1904 and 1970s.
Vineyard rows in Lodi with lush green grapevines under a partly cloudy sky.
Manassero Vineyards, Mokelumne River AVA—Carignan, Grenache and Zinfandel, planted 1938 to 1962.
Grapevines with ripe grapes in a Lodi vineyard during sunset.
Marian’s Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1901.
Vineyard in Lodi with gnarled grapevines and leafless trees under a cloudy sky.
Marisa Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1920s.

Mohr-Fry Ranches, DeVries Road Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1954.

Vineyard in Lodi with lush grapevines, blue sky, and scattered clouds, showcasing premium wine grape cultivation.
Mohr-Fry Ranches, West Lane Vineyards, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1941 to 1947.
Mule Plane Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Carignan, planted 1927-1930.
Grapevine with ripe grapes in a Lodi vineyard, showcasing healthy foliage and mature fruit.
Nicolini Ranch, Mokelumne River AVA—Carignan, planted 1930s and 1960s.

Nies Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1950s.

Vineyard in Lodi with grapevines and a distant winery in the background.
Noma Ranch, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted early 1900s.

Norma’s Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1934 and 1968-1970.

Close-up of a gnarled winegrape vine with ripe red grapes in Lodi, California.
Old School Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Flame Tokay, planted 1906.
Gnarled wine grapevines in a Lodi vineyard during overcast weather.
Peirano Estate, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted late 1890s.

Perley Vineyard, Mokelumne Vineyard AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1940s.

Vineyard in Lodi with red grapevines at sunset, showcasing premium wine grapes for Lodi Winegrape Commission.
Rauser Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Carignan, Alicante Bouschet and Zinfandel, planted 1909.
Grapevine with ripe dark grapes in a Lodi vineyard, California, during harvest season.
Rous Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1909.
Vineyard with pruned grapevines and a person in a red jacket inspecting the vines in Lodi, California.
Royal Tee Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, Carignan, Mission, Flame Tokay and Black Prince, planted 1889.
Grapevines with ripe dark purple grapes in a Lodi vineyard, showcasing healthy foliage and mature fruit ready for harvest.
Schmiedt’s 1902 Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1902.
Sheep grazing in a Lodi vineyard with grapevines and a cloudy sky in the background.
Schulenburg Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1950s.
Gnarled wine grapevines in a Lodi vineyard under a cloudy sky, showcasing the region's viticulture.
Scottsdale Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted early 1900s.

Serenity Oak, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1961.

Two workers harvesting grapes from a vineyard in Lodi, California, during the daytime.
Somers Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Mission, planted late 1970s.
Gnarled, twisted grapevines in a Lodi vineyard under a clear blue sky.
Soucie Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1916.
Person harvesting grapes in Lodi vineyard at sunset, showcasing grapevines and baskets of ripe grapes.
Spenker Ranch, Mokelumne River AVA—Carignan, Monbadon and Alicante Bouschet, planted 1900.
Farmer inspecting gnarled grapevines in a vineyard, emphasizing Lodi winegrape cultivation and viticulture.
Stampede Vineyard, Clements Hills AVA—Zinfandel, Mission, Mourvèdre, Alicante Bouschet, Grenache and Flame Tokay, planted 1928 to 1940s.
Lodi winegrape vineyard with colorful fall leaves and a gnarled vine trunk in California.
Star Valley Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1962.
Grapevine with lush green leaves and dark grapes in a Lodi vineyard, showcasing healthy wine grape growth.
Steacy Ranch, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1907 to 1950s.
Gnarled, leafless winegrape vines in a Lodi vineyard during winter with clear blue sky.
Stubborn Scot Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1963.
Grapevine with ripe black grapes in a Lodi vineyard for wine production.
Choral’s Vineyard, Clements Hills AVA—Zinfandel, planted late 1920s.
Vineyard with pruned grapevines in Lodi, California, under a cloudy sky.
TruLux Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1940s and 1970s.
Vineyard with pruned grapevines in Lodi, California, under a clear blue sky.
Viola’s Vineyard, Clements Hills AVA—Zinfandel and Flame Tokay, planted 1948.
Close-up of a gnarled winegrape vineyard tree with moss and soil in Lodi, California.
Wegat Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1958.
Vineyard with autumn-colored grapevines under a partly cloudy sky in Lodi, California.
Westwind Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1941.
ZinStar Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA—Zinfandel, planted 1933.

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