Are own-rooted grapevines superior to grapevines grafted on rootstocks?

Two east side Mokelumne River-Lodi Zinfandel specimens over 100 years old: (left) from Kirschenmann Vineyard planted on its own natural roots; (right) Steacy Vineyard planted on St.George rootstocks.

When wine buffs talk about the great wines of the world, they often talk about terroir, an important term of French origin that entails the natural environmental factors—such as climate, soil, topography, aspect, elevation, latitude, etc.—that have a direct effect on grapevine growth, and ultimately on the taste of wines. While terroir is more than about natural conditions—the hand of man also plays a big part of winegrowing—soil plays a crucial role.

Because the closest part of any plant to the ground is its root system, another hot topic of discussion when it comes to grapevines is rootstocks. That is to say, the rooting habits of specifically chosen rootstock selections that might be favorable to a site's soil, or to meet specific objectives such as drought tolerance, disease and pest resistance, grapevine vigor, canopy growth, a targeted average cluster weight, and a host of other concerns...

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Minerality in Lodi wines

Assyrtiko—a grape known for minerally, sometimes briny qualities—harvested in Perlegos Family's Thera Block, in Lodi's Clements Hills appellation.

Let’s talk about minerality, something a growing number of consumers look for in their wines. 

But why? Because many wine lovers have grown tired of the very qualities which have made American wines—particularly those of predominantly warm Mediterranean climate regions such as California (over 80% of wines produced in the U.S. are from California)—so popular for well over the past 50 years: Fruitiness. That is, predominantly fruity qualities in both aromas and flavors of wines.

Many of the consumers who are tired of fruitiness are turning to wines expressing some degree of minerality. As a sensory descriptor, it alludes to what the word suggests: Perceptions that suggest minerals, stones or an earth-related component in a wine's nose or palate feel, often in the presence of subdued fruit, floral or oak-derived sensations... 

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