Letters from Lodi
An insightful and objective look at viticulture and winemaking from the Lodi
Appellation and the growers and vintners behind these crafts. Told from the
perspective of multi-award winning wine journalist, Randy Caparoso.
Our favorite historic passages extolling the glories of wine
Over the past four or five years the wine industry in California has been dealing with the serious issue of overplanting of grapes⏤a crisis that has been challenging wine industries in virtually every wine producing country in the world over the past twenty years (see our previous post, While wine consumption in the U.S. slumps, American appreciation of wine grows unabated)..
This has led to quite a bit of hand-wringing, particularly in mainstream press. The oversupply of grapes, combined with recent statistics demonstrating a leveling off of consumer consumption in the U.S., is being described in a number of ways⏤a "grape apocalypse," a "dangerous crossroads," an "unprecedented" or "existential crisis," and so forth⏤leading to the conclusion: The American wine industry is in danger of shutting down...
Continue »Why the Certified Green seal on wine bottles is more important than ever
Why is a wine bottle bearing the Certified Green seal⏤indicative of wines farmed according to LODI RULES (or its equivalent outside the Lodi appellation, CALIFORNIA RULES) for Sustainable Winegrowing⏤more important than ever?
I can think of two words: Generation Z...
Continue »Liberating Americans from the yoke of conventional wine preferences
Early history of American wine appreciation
Those who don't learn from history are doomed to repeat it. Usually, of course, when we cite this well known quote, it is in reference to more sinister subjects.
When it comes to wine, though, it also seems like we are constantly repeating the past, and only punishing ourselves for it.
Take, for instance, our nasty habit of simplifying what makes wine interesting. As Americans, we've been doing that since the 1800s, ever since the country's earliest wine entrepreneurs, particularly in California, began planting every grape they could get their hands on, in every possible corner of the state. They did that, of course, because they had no idea what grapes grow best in the New World, nor exactly where to put them...
Continue »A California cork tree harvest, and why natural cork is the only choice for sustainable, regenerative and socially equitable closures
It may be time to rethink your choice of bottle closures. This was the overriding message, this past May 2024, when for the first time in the entire United States, there was a harvesting of cork trees⏤on UC Davis campus.
The cork tree harvest was actually a demonstration conducted by Cork Supply USA for the benefit of students in the school's renowned Viticulture and Enology department, first established in 1880...
Continue »All about the Christmassy colors of summer grapes
The objective of Vitis vinifera, or grapevines, from their very beginning⏤speculated as dating back over a million years ago, based upon evidence of fossilized leaves and seeds⏤has always been the same as that of humankind: To bear fruit and multiply.
In the Northern Hemisphere, this basic objective becomes visible during the months of July and August. It is called veraison, or véraison in the original French, for when the colors of black skinned grapes turn from green to red, violet, blue and blackish colors...
Continue »Anaya Vineyards' Nebbiolo and varietal innovations bring new definition to Lodi's Clements Hills appellation
It is time to catch up with Anaya Vineyards, one of Lodi wine country's most interesting stories; especially since the latest release of their estate grown Nebbiolo⏤a grape native to Northern Italy's Piemonte region⏤which only adds to Lodi's growing reputation for bold, alternative, contemporary style, terroir focused wines.
If you've been a Lodi wine lover for more than a decade, you might recall that the original label for wines crafted by Anaya Vineyards owner/winemaker Gerardo Espinosa was Viñedos Aurora, established in 2009 and named after the Anaya family's first vineyard (planted in 1998) in the Clements Hills-Lodi Viticultural Area.
Accordingly, Viñedos Aurora established its reputation on the basis of deep, dark and tannin-laden vintages of Petite Sirah and Cabernet Sauvignon very much representative of the shallow, gravelly clay hillside slopes unique to Clements Hills. It is a terroir, in fact, so different from the deep, ultrafine, fluffy sandy loam and flat-as-a-pancake landscape typifying the original farmlands planted around the City of Lodi, that it served as the original impetus for the proposal to divide the Lodi appellation into seven different sub-appellations, back in 2005...
Continue »How LODI RULES for Sustainable Winegrowing is directly addressing climate change
Our recent consecutive days of over 100° F. temperatures are just one of the many signs that our climate is changing as we speak. So is the uptick in forest fires, tornadoes, hurricanes, floods, droughts, and many other weather events posing a direct threat to populations, industries and economies.
So far the distance between Lodi and heavily forested areas have kept the impact of concerns such as smoke taint in grapes and wines grown in the appellation to a minimum, but the threat remains real, the danger imminent.
Glaciers are melting and seas are rising. By how much? Science-based estimates are putting the rise in sea level at nearly 1 foot within the next 30 years, about 2 feet by the end of this century. Bear in mind that that the elevation of Downtown Lodi is just 35 feet. San Francisco is already barely 4 feet above water, and grape growers on the western edge of Lodi are farming in leveed areas below sea level. We won't be around when water below the Lodi Arch reaches people's ankles, but no doubt this will be a serious concern for our descendants...
Continue »How global warming is changing winegrowing in Lodi and the rest of the world
Climate change's global impact and near-future projections
Never mind the squabble over the causes. Vintners all over the world are now living with climate change, manifested as warming of temperatures on a global scale.
The question is, how is the wine industry adjusting to this phenomenon? In France's Bordeaux region, a centuries-old bastion of wine tradition, authorities have recently authorized the planting of six "new" grapes: Albariño, Liliorila (a cross of Chardonnay and Baroque), Touriga Nacional, Castets, Marselan (Grenache x Cabernet Sauvignon cross), and Arinarnoa (Tannat x Cabernet Sauvignon)...
Continue »While wine consumption in the U.S. slumps, American appreciation of wine grows unabated
Since the start of the year (2024) the media has besieged wine consumers with bad news about the state of wine in America. American wine consumption is down, at least in terms of per capita and total gallons. Yet enthusiasm for wine across the country is greater than ever. Let's discuss...
According to Wine Institute's most recent figures: In 2022 Americans consumed 2.86 gallons of wine per capita (the lowest amount since 2015's 2.85 gallons). Total wine gallons consumed by Americans in 2022 was 964 million, the lowest since 2015's 915 million gallons.
These figures hits home here in Lodi because this is by far the largest wine grape growing region in the country...
Continue »In summer the living is easier with fresh salads washed down with contemporary style Lodi wines
It's summer. Perfect time to talk about... salads!
When weather gets hot, the body almost craves this healthy alternative to heavy, starchy meals. Salad lovers know that if you get crafty⏤like utilizing crisped bits of bacon, slivers of salmon, smoked tuna or crabmeat, slices of cheese like feta and mozzarella⏤you are essentially creating an entire meal in itself.
If, of course, your spouse or kids complain, you can always fry tiny cuts of beef or pork to meet their carnivorous demands. Summer is like that. Instead of a big steak with a little side of salad, you have a big salad with a tiny side of meat. And besides, if you cut out potatoes, bread or rice, summertime salads are an ideal way of keeping weight or blood sugar down...
Continue »