skip to main content

Lodi Winegrape Commission

  • Home
  • Wineries
  • About
  • Visit
    • Visitor Center
  • Club
  • Events
  • Store
    • LODI RULES Sustainable Certification
    • White Wines
    • Rosé Wines
    • Red Wines
    • Sparkling/Dessert Wines
    • Old Vine Wines
    • Merchandise
  • Blog
TOP

Letters from Lodi

An insightful and objective look at viticulture and winemaking from the Lodi
Appellation and the growers and vintners behind these crafts. Told from the
perspective of multi-award winning wine journalist, Randy Caparoso.

Randy Caparoso
 
October 4, 2011 | Randy Caparoso

Lodi’s “perfect storm” in 2011

IMG_2455

m2 Wines' Muriah Grabner picking Soucie Vineyard Zinfandel -- a Mokelumne River AVA classic -- on September 23

“Forecast calls for rain, but local grape growers aren’t panicking,” reads the headline in today’s Lodi News-Sentinel.  In fact, vintners are thinking the opposite:  their outlook on the 2011 Lodi harvest thus far is positively positive — as if the skies were still crystal blue and absolutely cloudless.

IMG_2520

m2 winemaker/proprietor Layne Montgomery measuring Brix of fermenting 2011 Zinfandel

It all comes down to grapes:  the varieties that are most susceptible to bunch rot – Zinfandel, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (yes, Lodi grows a significant quantity of Pinot Noir, too) – are pretty much all picked as of today.  As much as an inch of rain is expected to fall during a 12-15 hour window starting tonight (October 4) and through most of Wednesday.  Even so, thicker skinned grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot will remain on the vine in anticipation, and hopes, that the sunnier weather forecast for the second half of the week will continue to take grapes through a positive ripening process, lasting all the way through the end of October.

So far at least, 2011 has been a “perfect storm,” according to the multi-tasking winemaker, Chad Joseph (consulting for Harney Lane, Sorelle, Harmony Wynelands, Valhalla, McConnell Estates and McCormack-Williamson).  “The wet spring lowered yields,” says Joseph, “and the cooler summer delayed ripening.  But when the heat finally hit, the vines were healthy and ready to produce sugar.  Things took off since the vines weren’t carrying a heavy crop load, and we ended up with nicely balanced grapes.

“The low yields seem to have allowed grapes the opportunity to concentrate sugars through natural ripening, and the acid levels are good since there was never really was heat stress to shut down the vines.  I’m really happy with the wines we have pressed so far, which is mostly whites and Zinfandel.”

Borra Vineyards winemaker Markus Niggli is even more enthusiastic; telling us, “cold spring and cool summer with light crop created almost perfect crop.  We picked Zinfandel at 1.5 tons per acre that was absolutely mind blowing in quality – very concentrated and rich.”  In fact, says Niggli, 2011 Zinfandel looks “similar to 2010,” which many vintners have called the finest in memory.

Van Ruiten Family winemaker Ryan Leeman reports that “Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, and Viognier reach full ripeness this year by early to mid-September.  The whites are carrying more acid this year, and 2011 will likely be the first time they will go through complete malolactic fermentation” – the latter factor, indicative of the higher than usual acid levels.

IMG_2425

Just-picked 2011 Soucie Vineyard Zinfandel

Insofar as reds, according to Leeman, “just about all the Zinfandel has been harvested.”  This year Leeman also fermented 28 tons of old vine Zinfandel with native yeasts – utilizing natural flora on skins rather than inoculating with laboratory yeasts – which has just about completed primary fermentation.  The native yeast fermented Zinfandel is looking so good, according to Leeman, it will definitely “be something we’ll continue in the future.”

But if the rains persist, Leeman tells us, “it will become a winemaker’s year” – meaning, quality will suddenly be determined by the skill of individual winemakers, as opposed to the largesse of Nature.

IMG_2348

Joan Kautz with Kautz Family Cabernet Franc; which, like most Bordeaux grapes in Lodi and the rest of California, will hang through the rain for further ripening

Adds Joseph, “at Sorelle we decided to pick Sangiovese and Barbera before the rain since the Brix (i.e. sugar readings) were almost there and we didn’t want to risk potential breakdown incurred by weather.  But at Harney Lane, the Tempranillo and Petite Sirah are just not ready – for the lush, rich style we produce.  We are waiting for the acid to drop or tannins to ripen.  So for now, we are riding it out.”

PS 4, Ripken 083011

Ripken Petite Sirah will be picked following the rains, later in October

Niggli concurs with Joseph:  “Hopefully the rain will not damage too much crop.  Petite Sirah has been hanging nicely, but is slow to ripen.  We may pick our Barbera later this week, and Merlot right behind it.  Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah are more like two weeks down the road.”

Speaking as both a grower and winemaker, Niggli is optimistic about the Lodi wine industry’s economic future:  “We are experiencing another great year in terms of quality – the growing conditions have been outstanding.  But with the low yields, demand for 2012 will increase grape prices in Lodi,” which will be good for growers.  “Buying grapes at an early stage will be the key for next year.”

Speaking as a winemaker in pursuit of higher levels of quality on a pure sensory level – as a way of growing the reputation of the Lodi AVA, and through that, demand for its grapes – Joseph shares some interesting insights:  “I’m still trying to define what balance is in the context of style.  You’ve got to give them (Lodi wine drinkers) what they want, and still maximize what you’re given.  We are doing more indigenous (i.e. natural or “wild” yeast) fermentations on the Zinfandel, and fermenting some whites even colder.”

Says Joseph, “I am also trying to understand the relevance of texture as an important component to a wine’s profile – so much has been about flavor, texture seems to be overlooked a little in the context of balance, structure, and most importantly, terroir” – that is to say, the qualities that might ultimately distinguish Lodi as a region producing wines unique to Lodi.

Ultimate quality, after all, is not simply a matter of growing wines that are as good as those from other regions.  It’s also a matter of producing wines of special attributes that can come only from Lodi; which is entirely possible, given the “perfect storm” of talent, determination and wherewithal we are seeing here in Lodi, even as we speak.

IMG_2438

Soucie Vineyard grape picker

Tweet
Pin It

Comments

Commenting has been turned off.
Blog Search
Recent Posts
  • February 25, 2021
    All about terroir
  • February 22, 2021
    Why consumers never needed experts to tell them what they like (like Elvis and Zinfandel)
  • February 16, 2021
    A Lodi based sheep company begins work on sustainable vineyard farming
  • February 11, 2021
    Silicon Valley Bank's 2021 State of the U.S. Wine Industry report focuses on immediate and unimaginable challenges
  • February 9, 2021
    The dangers of COVID-19 to serious wine lovers
  • February 4, 2021
    In 2021, what's a wine brand to do to stay ahead?
  • January 27, 2021
    ZAP offers free Zinfandel livestream tastings and how Lodi Zinfandels compare to Zinfandels from other regions
  • January 25, 2021
    How Lodi wineries have adjusted to pandemic challenges and changes in how they do business
  • January 19, 2021
    French students break down Lodi winegrowing, marketing, and its Alta Mesa appellation
  • January 13, 2021
    Alternative style Lodi wines reflecting the wave of the future — part 2, new interpretations of heritage grapes
Our Writers
  • Randy Caparoso (812)
Blog Archives
2021
  • February 2021 (6)
  • January 2021 (6)
2020
  • December 2020 (7)
  • November 2020 (7)
  • October 2020 (6)
  • September 2020 (7)
  • August 2020 (7)
  • July 2020 (7)
  • June 2020 (8)
  • May 2020 (8)
  • April 2020 (8)
  • March 2020 (8)
  • February 2020 (6)
  • January 2020 (6)
2019
  • December 2019 (7)
  • November 2019 (6)
  • October 2019 (6)
  • September 2019 (5)
  • August 2019 (5)
  • July 2019 (7)
  • June 2019 (6)
  • May 2019 (6)
  • April 2019 (6)
  • March 2019 (6)
  • February 2019 (5)
  • January 2019 (7)
2018
  • December 2018 (7)
  • November 2018 (7)
  • October 2018 (9)
  • September 2018 (6)
  • August 2018 (7)
  • July 2018 (8)
  • June 2018 (7)
  • May 2018 (9)
  • April 2018 (8)
  • March 2018 (9)
  • February 2018 (8)
  • January 2018 (8)
2017
  • December 2017 (6)
  • November 2017 (8)
  • October 2017 (10)
  • September 2017 (5)
  • August 2017 (6)
  • July 2017 (7)
  • June 2017 (6)
  • May 2017 (5)
  • April 2017 (7)
  • March 2017 (6)
  • February 2017 (5)
  • January 2017 (7)
2016
  • December 2016 (7)
  • November 2016 (8)
  • October 2016 (7)
  • September 2016 (7)
  • August 2016 (5)
  • July 2016 (7)
  • June 2016 (7)
  • May 2016 (6)
  • April 2016 (6)
  • March 2016 (7)
  • February 2016 (6)
  • January 2016 (5)
2015
  • December 2015 (8)
  • November 2015 (6)
  • October 2015 (7)
  • September 2015 (5)
  • August 2015 (6)
  • July 2015 (7)
  • June 2015 (6)
  • May 2015 (5)
  • April 2015 (6)
  • March 2015 (6)
  • February 2015 (7)
  • January 2015 (5)
2014
  • December 2014 (8)
  • November 2014 (5)
  • October 2014 (7)
  • September 2014 (5)
  • August 2014 (3)
  • July 2014 (5)
  • June 2014 (6)
  • May 2014 (7)
  • April 2014 (7)
  • March 2014 (5)
  • February 2014 (4)
  • January 2014 (7)
2013
  • December 2013 (8)
  • November 2013 (6)
  • October 2013 (7)
  • September 2013 (5)
  • August 2013 (6)
  • July 2013 (4)
  • June 2013 (4)
  • May 2013 (4)
  • April 2013 (5)
  • March 2013 (2)
  • February 2013 (2)
  • January 2013 (4)
2012
  • December 2012 (7)
  • November 2012 (9)
  • October 2012 (9)
  • September 2012 (7)
  • August 2012 (9)
  • July 2012 (8)
  • June 2012 (8)
  • May 2012 (9)
  • April 2012 (8)
  • March 2012 (9)
  • February 2012 (7)
  • January 2012 (9)
2011
  • December 2011 (7)
  • November 2011 (8)
  • October 2011 (7)
  • September 2011 (7)
  • August 2011 (8)
  • July 2011 (8)
  • June 2011 (9)
  • May 2011 (7)
  • April 2011 (9)
  • March 2011 (8)
  • February 2011 (8)
  • January 2011 (7)
2010
  • December 2010 (8)
  • November 2010 (6)
  • October 2010 (2)
  • September 2010 (6)
  • August 2010 (5)
Additional Resources
  • Media & Trade
  • Lodi Winegrape Commission
  • Donation Requests
  • Returns & Cancellations
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms Of Use
Contact

Lodi Wine Visitor Center
2545 West Turner Road Lodi, CA 95242
209.365.0621
Open: Thursday - Sunday 12:00pm-5:00pm

Lodi Winegrape Commission
2545 West Turner Road, Lodi, CA 95242
209.367.4727
Open: Monday-Friday 8:00am-5:00pm

Have a question? Complete our contact form.

  • © Copyright 2021 Lodi Winegrape Commission
  • Winery Ecommerce by WineDirect