skip to main content

Lodi Winegrape Commission

  • Home
  • Wineries
  • About
  • Visit
    • Visitor Center
  • Club
  • Events
  • Store
    • LODI RULES Sustainable Certification
    • White Wines
    • Rosé Wines
    • Red Wines
    • Sparkling/Dessert Wines
    • Old Vine Wines
    • Merchandise
  • Blog
TOP

Letters from Lodi

An insightful and objective look at viticulture and winemaking from the Lodi
Appellation and the growers and vintners behind these crafts. Told from the
perspective of multi-award winning wine journalist, Randy Caparoso.

Randy Caparoso
 
February 4, 2015 | Randy Caparoso

Tizona by Bokisch’s Zinfandel is a new Lodi classic

Markus Bokisch and his winemaker Elyse Egan Perry in Lodi’s Kirschenmann Vineyard

Markus Bokisch and his winemaker Elyse Egan Perry in Lodi’s Kirschenmann Vineyard

The more consumers and wine critics have come to appreciate kinder, gentler, more feminine styles of California Zinfandel, the more they are appreciating Zinfandels grown in Lodi.

Adding to that increasingly verdant vein, major Lodi growers Markus and Liz Bokisch have just released their first-ever Zinfandel; bottled under a brand new label – Tizona by Bokisch – to distinguish it from the Spanish varietal wines carrying their Bokisch Vineyards label.

Tizona is the name of the sword wielded by the legendary 11th century Spanish warrior known as El Cid, signifying the Bokischs' cutting-edge approach to winegrowing as well as their respect for things of historic significance – such as Lodi's wealth of "old vine" growths, dating as far back as the 1880s.

Markus Bokisch and his winemaker Elyse Egan Perry in Lodi's Kirschenmann Vineyard

Tizona Kirschenmann Vineyard Zinfandel

Indeed, the 2012 Tizona Kirschenmann Vineyard Lodi Zinfandel ($32) is sourced from a 15-acre block of gnarly, old Zinfandel vines originally planted on their own rootstocks (meaning, they have never been grafted onto other rootstocks) in 1915.

The wine itself, bottled after spending two years in neutral (i.e. well-used) French oak barrels, is a liquid consummation of what is becoming more closely identified as a true "Lodi style." That is, it was deliberately crafted to avoid duplicating what many consumers expect out of most Zinfandels grown in California; particularly the bigger, sturdier, plumper fruit style associated with quintessential Sonoma County or Napa Valley Zinfandels.

By way of contrast, the 2012 Tizona Zinfandel from Kirschenmann Vineyard is a remarkably silky, delicate, feminine style of Zinfandel; nearly transparent in its cherry-red color, with flowery perfumes of red berries and cherry, fresh and zesty rather than heavy or jammy. Another Lodi signature is its Black English tea-like note in the nose. We also find faintly scrubby, earthy, almost lavender-like savory qualities; mingling with black cherry/strawberry leaf sensations in the wine’s long, gentle middle and after-taste.

"There is distinct sense of place to this wine," remarks Mr. Bokisch, "… qualities shared only by surrounding vineyards. This is why we backed away from new oak – to let the vineyard speak." Bokisch Ranches (the Bokischs' agricultural arm) organically farms Kirschenmann Vineyard for its current owner, Tegan Passalacqua, who purchased it from the Kirschenmann family in early 2012.

Old-time Lodi growers knew the Kirschenmann site – located on the east side of Lodi's Mokelumne River AVA, along Bruella Rd. – as the Baumbach Vineyard; but the name was changed by Passalacqua in honor of the growth's long time custodians.

Kirschenmann also represents Bokisch Ranches' first foray into Zinfandel viticulture, although not for previous lack of desire. "I was beside myself when Tegan first approached me about farming Kirschenmann," says Bokisch. Located just a country block from the Bokischs' home on Cherry Rd., Kirschenmann was a vineyard that Markus and Liz would often gaze longingly at during their Sunday morning walks.

Kirschenmann Vineyard owner Tegan Passalacqua (left) field-sorting harvest…

Kirschenmann Vineyard owner Tegan Passalacqua (left) field-sorting harvest…

"I had always wanted to work with gnarly old Zinfandel," Mr. Bokisch tells us. "I just said, let's do this… and as soon as you accept new things like this in your life, your outlook on winegrowing really does start to change. We are now farming a total of 45 acres of old vine Zinfandel in four different blocks, three of them within a stone's throw of each other."

Mr. Passalacqua himself may not be a Lodi old-timer, but his reverence for ancient Zinfandel is well known in the broader wine world: while serving as the current winemaker/vineyard manager of Turley Wine Cellars – quite possibly California's most prestigious grower/producer of old vine Zinfandel, sourced anywhere from Sonoma County to Napa Valley, Paso Robles, Contra Costa, Amador County and, of course, Lodi – as well as owner/winemaker of his own Sandlands Wines brand, Passalacqua is also a founding director of Historic Vineyard Society, a nonprofit organization dedicated to the recognition and preservation of California vineyards over 50 years of age.

Markus Bokisch examining Kirchenmann Zinfandel vine’s spur positions

Markus Bokisch examining Kirchenmann Zinfandel vine’s spur positions

Wines made from ancient vines are not automatically the finest. Vine age guarantees a winemaker, and consumer, absolutely nothing. Plantings as young as 3 years old have been known to produce great wines. Nonetheless, there are reasons why only certain vineyards, in certain parts of the world, continue to thrive even after 50, 75, or over 100 years.

Grape variety has a lot to do with it: ancient vine plantings of Zinfandel, Mourvèdre (a.k.a. Mataro) or Carignan, for instance, are known to produce wines of fantastic quality, and fairly decent quantity; whereas there is usually no benefit in terms of quality and yield when it comes to most classic wine grapes (such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir or Chardonnay) when cultivated beyond 35 or 40 years.

When he purchased Kirschenmann Vineyard three years ago, Passalacqua knew exactly what he was getting into; having worked with the late Ross Schmiedt's Dairy Vineyard (bottled as Schmiedt Ranch Zinfandel by Turley Wine Cellars), located just a few feet away from the Kirschenmann site. "These Zinfandels will never be for everyone," Passalacqua was quoted to say soon after taking possession of Kirschenmann.

Continues Passalacqua, "This particular bend of the Mokelumne River sits in a slightly cooler pocket of air than surrounding areas, and gives us prettier, higher toned wines – not the type of inky dark or massively structured wines many people look for in Zinfandel. The wines here have medium to medium-plus concentration, and aromatics that are more on the floral side, yet with a good amount of spice and pepper, and just enough tannin structure to make it full, but not gigantic."

The Tizona, of course, is just one Zinfandel, from one particular vineyard in Lodi. The nice thing about it is that we are now beginning to see more vineyard-designated bottlings of commercial Lodi Zinfandel showing as many variations of a theme as there are vineyards. If anything, it is fortuitous that this theme happens to be what more and more consumers are loving: more subtle, refined, balanced, and even more food-versatile styles of Zinfandel – and it’s about time!

Majestic, own-rooted, 100-year old Kirschenmann Vineyard Zinfandel

Majestic, own-rooted, 100-year old Kirschenmann Vineyard Zinfandel

Tweet
Pin It

Comments

Commenting has been turned off.
Blog Search
Recent Posts
  • February 25, 2021
    All about terroir
  • February 22, 2021
    Why consumers never needed experts to tell them what they like (like Elvis and Zinfandel)
  • February 16, 2021
    A Lodi based sheep company begins work on sustainable vineyard farming
  • February 11, 2021
    Silicon Valley Bank's 2021 State of the U.S. Wine Industry report focuses on immediate and unimaginable challenges
  • February 9, 2021
    The dangers of COVID-19 to serious wine lovers
  • February 4, 2021
    In 2021, what's a wine brand to do to stay ahead?
  • January 27, 2021
    ZAP offers free Zinfandel livestream tastings and how Lodi Zinfandels compare to Zinfandels from other regions
  • January 25, 2021
    How Lodi wineries have adjusted to pandemic challenges and changes in how they do business
  • January 19, 2021
    French students break down Lodi winegrowing, marketing, and its Alta Mesa appellation
  • January 13, 2021
    Alternative style Lodi wines reflecting the wave of the future — part 2, new interpretations of heritage grapes
Our Writers
  • Randy Caparoso (812)
Blog Archives
2021
  • February 2021 (6)
  • January 2021 (6)
2020
  • December 2020 (7)
  • November 2020 (7)
  • October 2020 (6)
  • September 2020 (7)
  • August 2020 (7)
  • July 2020 (7)
  • June 2020 (8)
  • May 2020 (8)
  • April 2020 (8)
  • March 2020 (8)
  • February 2020 (6)
  • January 2020 (6)
2019
  • December 2019 (7)
  • November 2019 (6)
  • October 2019 (6)
  • September 2019 (5)
  • August 2019 (5)
  • July 2019 (7)
  • June 2019 (6)
  • May 2019 (6)
  • April 2019 (6)
  • March 2019 (6)
  • February 2019 (5)
  • January 2019 (7)
2018
  • December 2018 (7)
  • November 2018 (7)
  • October 2018 (9)
  • September 2018 (6)
  • August 2018 (7)
  • July 2018 (8)
  • June 2018 (7)
  • May 2018 (9)
  • April 2018 (8)
  • March 2018 (9)
  • February 2018 (8)
  • January 2018 (8)
2017
  • December 2017 (6)
  • November 2017 (8)
  • October 2017 (10)
  • September 2017 (5)
  • August 2017 (6)
  • July 2017 (7)
  • June 2017 (6)
  • May 2017 (5)
  • April 2017 (7)
  • March 2017 (6)
  • February 2017 (5)
  • January 2017 (7)
2016
  • December 2016 (7)
  • November 2016 (8)
  • October 2016 (7)
  • September 2016 (7)
  • August 2016 (5)
  • July 2016 (7)
  • June 2016 (7)
  • May 2016 (6)
  • April 2016 (6)
  • March 2016 (7)
  • February 2016 (6)
  • January 2016 (5)
2015
  • December 2015 (8)
  • November 2015 (6)
  • October 2015 (7)
  • September 2015 (5)
  • August 2015 (6)
  • July 2015 (7)
  • June 2015 (6)
  • May 2015 (5)
  • April 2015 (6)
  • March 2015 (6)
  • February 2015 (7)
  • January 2015 (5)
2014
  • December 2014 (8)
  • November 2014 (5)
  • October 2014 (7)
  • September 2014 (5)
  • August 2014 (3)
  • July 2014 (5)
  • June 2014 (6)
  • May 2014 (7)
  • April 2014 (7)
  • March 2014 (5)
  • February 2014 (4)
  • January 2014 (7)
2013
  • December 2013 (8)
  • November 2013 (6)
  • October 2013 (7)
  • September 2013 (5)
  • August 2013 (6)
  • July 2013 (4)
  • June 2013 (4)
  • May 2013 (4)
  • April 2013 (5)
  • March 2013 (2)
  • February 2013 (2)
  • January 2013 (4)
2012
  • December 2012 (7)
  • November 2012 (9)
  • October 2012 (9)
  • September 2012 (7)
  • August 2012 (9)
  • July 2012 (8)
  • June 2012 (8)
  • May 2012 (9)
  • April 2012 (8)
  • March 2012 (9)
  • February 2012 (7)
  • January 2012 (9)
2011
  • December 2011 (7)
  • November 2011 (8)
  • October 2011 (7)
  • September 2011 (7)
  • August 2011 (8)
  • July 2011 (8)
  • June 2011 (9)
  • May 2011 (7)
  • April 2011 (9)
  • March 2011 (8)
  • February 2011 (8)
  • January 2011 (7)
2010
  • December 2010 (8)
  • November 2010 (6)
  • October 2010 (2)
  • September 2010 (6)
  • August 2010 (5)
Additional Resources
  • Media & Trade
  • Lodi Winegrape Commission
  • Donation Requests
  • Returns & Cancellations
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms Of Use
Contact

Lodi Wine Visitor Center
2545 West Turner Road Lodi, CA 95242
209.365.0621
Open: Thursday - Sunday 12:00pm-5:00pm

Lodi Winegrape Commission
2545 West Turner Road, Lodi, CA 95242
209.367.4727
Open: Monday-Friday 8:00am-5:00pm

Have a question? Complete our contact form.

  • © Copyright 2021 Lodi Winegrape Commission
  • Winery Ecommerce by WineDirect