skip to main content

Lodi Winegrape Commission

  • Home
  • Wineries
  • About
  • Visit
    • Visitor Center
  • Club
  • Events
  • Store
    • LODI RULES Sustainable Certification
    • White Wines
    • Rosé Wines
    • Red Wines
    • Sparkling/Dessert Wines
    • Old Vine Wines
    • Merchandise
  • Blog
TOP

Letters from Lodi

An insightful and objective look at viticulture and winemaking from the Lodi
Appellation and the growers and vintners behind these crafts. Told from the
perspective of multi-award winning wine journalist, Randy Caparoso.

Randy Caparoso
 
July 29, 2016 | Randy Caparoso

In Lodi, Christmas (a.k.a. veraison) comes in July

Zinfandel during July veraison in Harney Lane Winery's Lizzy James Vineyard

The objective of Vitis, or grape vines, from their very beginning – speculated as dating back over a million years ago, based upon evidence of fossilized leaves and seeds – has always been the same as that of humankind: to bear fruit and multiply.

The almost miraculous changes we see in black skinned varieties of Vitis vinifera – the European species of vines always known to produce the finest wines – during the month of July in the Northern Hemisphere is a reflection of that basic objective. 

Iconic ancient 115-year-old Marian's Vineyard Zinfandel during July veraison

At the beginning of the month individual berries are still going through a phase of berry cell division and cell expansion: while firm and green with chlorophyll, berries are growing into their maximum size, while their organic acid content is at its highest. The plant, in this phase, is still in its mama-bear mode – protective of its tender seeds as it builds a tough, acidic wall of pulp around them, the fruit still unedible to hungry animals.

Then suddenly, usually early in the month of July, something clicks: grapes enter their period known as veraison – taken from the French word véraison, in reference to “change of color” – when chlorophyll content begins to recede, and skins dramatically change from green to red, violet, blue to black colors.

Sorelle Vineyards Sangiovese during July veraison

As the multi-colored stage of veraison unfolds, grapes soften and sugars begin to accumulate, while acids steadily decline and cell division grinds to a halt. It is as if the plant has suddenly decided that it needs to begin to make itself more attractive to possible suitors; as the fruit transitions from green, herby, sour tastes to, eventually, a sweet, aromatic, luscious fruitiness. The softening skins of black skinned grapes begin to develop more flavonoid phenolics, adding to the fruit's edibility; and it is these phenolics that account for most of the aromas, flavors and sensory textures eventually expressed in a fermented red wine.

Bechthold Vineyard Cinsaut (Lodi's oldest vines, planted in 1886) just completing veraison at the end of July

In short, the grapes are suddenly saying, “take me!” In the wild, birds, deer, bears, and other animals would be there to pounce, the moment grapes reach a threshold where the taste of sweet fruitiness predominates over acidic sharpness (in vineyards beside natural corridors today, measures like nets, fences and raptors are utilized to discourage illicit munching). In the natural course of things, mature seeds would be excreted through animal waste, spread hither and yon where new vines can pop up. This is how varieties of Vitis managed to endure, and evolve, through hundreds of thousands of years, even through ages when the earth was buried mostly under ice.

Schmierer Vineyard Zinfandel during early July veraison

Winegrowers and winemakers, however, soon learned that it is best to wait a good 30 to 45 days after black skinned wine grapes go through veraison, to give clusters more time to develop optimal flavors; a window usually arriving in September or October, when sugar content climbs closer to 25% of grape volume – a percentage that translates into wines of 12% to 15% alcohol.

CLR Farms Syrah (east side of Lodi) during July veraison

During its evolution over millenniums, Vitis vinifera eventually mutated from dioecious (divided between male and female plants) to hermaphrodite (i.e. self-pollinating) vines; a characteristic that would become highly advantageous to the earliest enterprising grape growers, once they discovered that the natural yeast flora found on grape skins miraculously produce a delicious alcoholic beverage when put in contact with grape sugars. Unlike the way wild dioecious grape vines went forth and multiplied, it is possible to establish generations of self-pollinating vines as planted cuttings; thus assuring more predictable consistency of fruit and wine types.

Meanwhile, those of us who live in wine regions north of the equator can still enjoy the beautiful sights of veraison in July. It is like the visually stimulating start of a wine lover’s Christmas – we can hardly wait to unwrap the pleasures to come!

Silvaspoons Vineyards Tinta Roriz (a.k.a. Tempranillo) during July veraison

Tweet
Pin It

Comments

Commenting has been turned off.
Blog Search
Recent Posts
  • January 13, 2021
    Alternative style Lodi wines reflecting the wave of the future — part 2, new interpretations of heritage grapes
  • January 11, 2021
    Alternative style Lodi wines reflecting the wave of the future — part 1, an unfamiliar white and red
  • January 5, 2021
    Discerning wines of the immediate future through what we know about the past and what's going in Lodi
  • December 29, 2020
    Lodi 2020: The year in pictures
  • December 27, 2020
    The small steps of Lodi growers led to giant leaps for Lodi wine country
  • December 22, 2020
    Looking on the bright side of fading old vine plantings in Lodi
  • December 17, 2020
    Our list of nice Lodi reds, rosés and fortified dessert wines for Christmas gifting and sipping
  • December 15, 2020
    A Lodi white makes the world's Top 100 list, and other Lodi whites for Christmas shopping and sipping
  • December 9, 2020
    The 1980s and 1990s — start of Lodi wine country's modern era
  • December 3, 2020
    The original Lodi Natives — the Plains Miwok
Our Writers
  • Randy Caparoso (803)
Blog Archives
2021
  • January 2021 (3)
2020
  • December 2020 (7)
  • November 2020 (7)
  • October 2020 (6)
  • September 2020 (7)
  • August 2020 (7)
  • July 2020 (7)
  • June 2020 (8)
  • May 2020 (8)
  • April 2020 (8)
  • March 2020 (8)
  • February 2020 (6)
  • January 2020 (6)
2019
  • December 2019 (7)
  • November 2019 (6)
  • October 2019 (6)
  • September 2019 (5)
  • August 2019 (5)
  • July 2019 (7)
  • June 2019 (6)
  • May 2019 (6)
  • April 2019 (6)
  • March 2019 (6)
  • February 2019 (5)
  • January 2019 (7)
2018
  • December 2018 (7)
  • November 2018 (7)
  • October 2018 (9)
  • September 2018 (6)
  • August 2018 (7)
  • July 2018 (8)
  • June 2018 (7)
  • May 2018 (9)
  • April 2018 (8)
  • March 2018 (9)
  • February 2018 (8)
  • January 2018 (8)
2017
  • December 2017 (6)
  • November 2017 (8)
  • October 2017 (10)
  • September 2017 (5)
  • August 2017 (6)
  • July 2017 (7)
  • June 2017 (6)
  • May 2017 (5)
  • April 2017 (7)
  • March 2017 (6)
  • February 2017 (5)
  • January 2017 (7)
2016
  • December 2016 (7)
  • November 2016 (8)
  • October 2016 (7)
  • September 2016 (7)
  • August 2016 (5)
  • July 2016 (7)
  • June 2016 (7)
  • May 2016 (6)
  • April 2016 (6)
  • March 2016 (7)
  • February 2016 (6)
  • January 2016 (5)
2015
  • December 2015 (8)
  • November 2015 (6)
  • October 2015 (7)
  • September 2015 (5)
  • August 2015 (6)
  • July 2015 (7)
  • June 2015 (6)
  • May 2015 (5)
  • April 2015 (6)
  • March 2015 (6)
  • February 2015 (7)
  • January 2015 (5)
2014
  • December 2014 (8)
  • November 2014 (5)
  • October 2014 (7)
  • September 2014 (5)
  • August 2014 (3)
  • July 2014 (5)
  • June 2014 (6)
  • May 2014 (7)
  • April 2014 (7)
  • March 2014 (5)
  • February 2014 (4)
  • January 2014 (7)
2013
  • December 2013 (8)
  • November 2013 (6)
  • October 2013 (7)
  • September 2013 (5)
  • August 2013 (6)
  • July 2013 (4)
  • June 2013 (4)
  • May 2013 (4)
  • April 2013 (5)
  • March 2013 (2)
  • February 2013 (2)
  • January 2013 (4)
2012
  • December 2012 (7)
  • November 2012 (9)
  • October 2012 (9)
  • September 2012 (7)
  • August 2012 (9)
  • July 2012 (8)
  • June 2012 (8)
  • May 2012 (9)
  • April 2012 (8)
  • March 2012 (9)
  • February 2012 (7)
  • January 2012 (9)
2011
  • December 2011 (7)
  • November 2011 (8)
  • October 2011 (7)
  • September 2011 (7)
  • August 2011 (8)
  • July 2011 (8)
  • June 2011 (9)
  • May 2011 (7)
  • April 2011 (9)
  • March 2011 (8)
  • February 2011 (8)
  • January 2011 (7)
2010
  • December 2010 (8)
  • November 2010 (6)
  • October 2010 (2)
  • September 2010 (6)
  • August 2010 (5)
Additional Resources
  • Media & Trade
  • Lodi Winegrape Commission
  • Donation Requests
  • Returns & Cancellations
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms Of Use
Contact

Lodi Wine Visitor Center
2545 West Turner Road Lodi, CA 95242
209.365.0621
Open: Thursday - Sunday 12:00pm-5:00pm

Lodi Winegrape Commission
2545 West Turner Road, Lodi, CA 95242
209.367.4727
Open: Monday-Friday 8:00am-5:00pm

Have a question? Complete our contact form.

  • © Copyright 2021 Lodi Winegrape Commission
  • Winery Ecommerce by WineDirect