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2022 Birichino Cinsault Blanc
Do not allow the dark bottle to deceive - you are looking at only our second foray into BdN [which admittedly sounds a bit more outré than is actually the case]. It is a texturally sensuous, though still tightly wound white wine for we have endeavored to keep the kink factor to a bare minimum. Achieving this level of tactility, salinity and finesse from a hot climate at 12.5% alcohol requires a special combination of vine age [✔] and variety matched to site [✔]. Bechthold, planted to Tokay Fine Sandy Loam in 1886 checks all the boxes. Furthermore, these structurally gentle wines are more susceptible to the revelation of faults and funkiness. As charter members of the “Take the FU out of Funky” school of winemaking, we are pleased to report the wine is razor sharp in that regard.
We were blessed with a little more Cinsault than average in 2022, and given the successs of our maiden bottling of this wine in 2020, we doubled production to a total of 4 barrels. Again, it is produced from the very lightest pressing of Cinsault, fermented native in stainless steel, and prepped for bottling after a brief sojourn on the lees.
Who knew that Cinsault excels at so many different schticks, much less blanc de noir? This is the now the fifth different Birichino wine which has in full or in part derived from Bechthold Cinsault, following Vin Gris, Cinsaut Rouge and Cinsault Pat Nat Rosé, and now the Hic Svnt Dracones. We are fond of remarking how malleable are both Malvasia Bianca and Chenin Blanc, two varieties traditionally fashioned into a vast array of wine styles. Those varieties, however, are full of acidity and convey a strong varietal presence, regardless of style. Cinsault typically gets by with sufficient, though hardly bracing acidity. Nor does it flaunt an extravagant, singular personality like the two above grapes. However, as we have seen so many times, with the right vines, in the right place for a very long time, something - and often many things - wicked this way comes.
Note: this wine was bottled without treatment for cold stability, so don't be alarmed by the presence of tartrate crystals (or what some inspired wine marketeers describe as "wine diamonds") on the cork, and at the bottom of the bottle. You can decant if you like, or just go for it without worry.
4 Barrels Produced.
Vintage
2022
Varietal
Other
Appellation
Mokelumne River