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Letters from Lodi

An insightful and objective look at viticulture and winemaking from the Lodi
Appellation and the growers and vintners behind these crafts. Told from the
perspective of multi-award winning wine journalist, Randy Caparoso.

Randy Caparoso
 
May 15, 2021 | Randy Caparoso

Lodi Appellation Inclusion Collective aims to increase wine industry diversity with first enrichment program in June

Klinker Brick Winery head winemaker Joseph Smith, an Afro-Latin originally from Belize, and among a minority holding key positions in the Lodi wine industry

A group of Lodi vintners have come together to form an organization called the Lodi Appellation Inclusion Collective, or LAIC. LAIC's first activity is scheduled to take place by mid-June of 2021: a 3-and-a-half-day "enrichment" program, in which a projected half-dozen participants will be able to experience all facets of the Lodi wine industry, from vineyard and winery work to marketing and sales.

The express purpose of LAIC will be to increase racial and cultural diversity in the Lodi winegrowing region — and hopefully in the long run, enhance the American wine industry in general — by sponsoring activities that pro-actively stimulate interest in living and working in winegrowing regions like Lodi, particularly among the BIPOC (i.e., Black, Indigenous and People of Color) and LGBTQ (Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Transgender and Queer) communities.

Acquiesce Winery's Rod and Sue Tipton 

While this Lodi-based "Inclusion Collective" is still in its initial stage, its sponsors currently include some of Lodi's most respected winery and vineyard owners; including Rodney and Susan Tipton of Acquiesce Winery & Vineyards, Markus and Liz Bokisch of Bokisch Vineyards, Farrah Felten Jolley of Klinker Brick Winery, John and Lisa Gash of PRIE Winery, Tom Hoffman of Heritage Oak Winery, Ben and Madelyn Kolber of KG Vineyard Management LLC, David Phillips of Michael David Winery, and The Lucas Winery.

Make no mistake, Lodi's LAIC has come together out of direct response to many of the burning social issues of our times, lapping up to the vineyards, wineries and streets of Lodi. Acquiesce's Rodney Tipton, the founder of the group, tells us: "When the George Floyd incident occurred, I read everything I could find about the true state of diversity and challenges many, many people still face in breaking into any particular field of interest and career planning. The state of diversity is still lacking in many industries for a wide range of reasons. and I knew some of it was due to the lack of networking with people outside our normal circles. After all, that's how many jobs and opportunities are afforded us throughout our work lives.

Julia Coney (photo courtesy of blackwineprofessionals.com)

"Then Julia Coney [the D.C. and Houston-based wine journalist/educator who founded Black Wine Professionals] began suggesting to anyone who wished to see things change, to reach out to the list she had put together and support them in their efforts. Julia's list underlined the lack of diversity in the wine industry. Sue and I began talking about ways we could help, and came up with the idea of creating a collective of Lodi winery and vineyard owners who are of like mind, and willing to pool their efforts and resources."

A Lodi grower's perspective — finding strength in diversity

Speaking for herself and her husband Ben Kolber, KG Vineyard Management's Madelyn Kolber explained their enthusiastic embrace of LAIC: "Our first reaction to the idea was that this is very exciting. Ben and I have always been very supportive of bringing diversity to our workplace [re our March 2018 post on KG Vineyard Management's diverse business model], and we'd love to see the same thing brought to the entire Lodi wine scene. We recognize the strengths that diversity has brought to our own company.

Madelyn Ripken and Ben Kolber, whose KG Vineyard Management who have made diversity a key part of their business as part of their fulfillment of LODI RULES for Sustainable Winegrowing

"We respect the way things have been done in Lodi for many generations, but we don't want things to always be the same. In our company, we've had to learn about people from different cultures and backgrounds. We've learned how to adapt to them, to give them space, being open to change and doing things differently from before. Now we celebrate our differences because we've learned so much more, and we've moved forward together. I like that. It's not always the easy way, but we know it's the right way.

"We value that Lodi has already been moving forward from its past and embracing change and innovation. For instance, we're open to planting many different types of grapes and becoming known for that. I don't see why it can't be the same with people — encouraging more diversity in the workplace, and welcoming more diversity of visitors — and letting this become another one of our strengths. 

Ripken Vineyards picking crew contracted by KG Vineyard Management (more than half of this company's full-time employees are of Pakistani descent)

"When I spent more time in the tasting room [at Ripken Vineyards & Winery], the thing we always used to hear from consumers is that they like Lodi because here they get to meet the people who actually grow the grapes and make the wines. You just don't find that anymore in other wine regions. On our part, we quickly learned to relate to all kinds of people, coming from all walks of life. This is what Lodi has going for itself. The things we'll do with LAIC will only strengthen that. 

"We are already all about innovation and sustainability in the vineyards. Promoting diversity falls in line with those exact same values that are so important to us."

PRIE Winery's John and Lisa Gash

The Lodi Appellation Inclusion Collective initiatives

Why is increasing diversity in the Lodi wine industry important? According to Mr. Tipton, "In my previous career, I was keenly aware of the diversity or lack thereof within the organizations I was responsible for. I found that a company with a truly diverse workforce at all levels was a better company in many ways. Different cultures, backgrounds, and life experiences bring a superior mix of ideas and views which serve to make better products, better customer service, and an environment where people enjoy working together and learning from each other."

According to Tipton, it is also the nature of the wine industry to foster diversity. "Wine, and the enjoyment of wine and food, is a culture that naturally brings people of diverse backgrounds together."

But the importance of diversity in the wine industry is not just cultural. It is also economical. Adds Tipton, "Talent is never easy to find in any thriving industry, and so one answer is to increase the pool of talent and with focus. I think diversity here will bring a wider audience of visitors and people who appreciate what we have to offer. Ultimately we are dependent upon our customer base, and a welcoming diverse group of professionals here in Lodi will attract more visitors."

Carmela and Tom Hoffman of Lodi's Heritage Oak Vineyards

Also according to Tipton, all of the Lodi winemakers and growers participating in LAIC — which means providing most of the funding for activities ultimately aimed at fostering diversity — are "interested in the practical benefits of achieving more diversity in their teams as well as in visitors, although the most common reason that they've given for being part of this is, simply, because they believe it's the right thing to do."

Tipton goes on to explain LAIC's initial plans: "The first activity will be annual Enrichment Trips in the spring and in the late summer [the latter, at the start of annual grape harvests]. This program is designed to immerse selected candidates into a wide range of Lodi appellation work, including grape growing, winemaking, hospitality, wine writing and more, over a period of five days."

Candidates for the enrichment programs, who will be lodged and also experience extensive wine and food tastings organized by LAIC, will be selected in coordination with at least two other organizations. Says Tipton, "We have partnered with The Roots Fund organization, and they will advertise, interview and select candidates for the program with a focus on local areas first. We are also working with the Association of African American Vintners and getting their input on the enrichment program."

Michael David Winery's David Phillips, a strong proponent of diversity in the wine industry

Adds Tipton, "A second major activity we are working on is the creation of an International Inclusion Wine Competition. The idea is for the judging panel to reflect the diversity we would like to see in the industry overall, particularly BIPOC, LGBTQ, Asian, and women wine professionals from across the spectrum. We are putting together a project team right now, and hope to accomplish this for 2022.

"I started with the idea of a BIPOC-specific competition, and it was suggested by more than one person I reached out to for advice that this should involve a judging panel representing as much diversity as possible. Right now, we are thinking it would great to have the competition results published in concert with Juneteenth 2022, in conjunction with a nice, celebratory event here in Lodi."

For further reading on LAIC, see Stockton Record's January 2021 article, Lodi Appellation Inclusion Collective working to bring diversity to wine world

Anyone interested in learning more about LAIC and its efforts is welcome to contact Rodney Tipton directly at rodney@av-wine.com. or visit laic-collective.com

Bokisch Vineyards owner/growers Markus and Liz Bokisch (middle/right) with their winemaker Elyse Egan Perry

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