Early
Lodi
Early explorers to the area discovered a region teeming with
wildlife and lush vegetation. The valley's floor was covered with towering
oaks, grasses, and wildflowers. The rivers were filled with salmon, the skies
with migratory birds, and the lands rich with deer. Grizzly bears rumbled
through the foothills, vast herds of antelope and elk roamed the valley floors,
and Miwok Indians first inhabited the region, hunting and gathering along the
rivers.
Grapes were always part of the local landscape, growing wild
dangling from the trees along the riverbanks. Early trappers called one stream
"Wine Creek," due to the bounty of wild vines. That river was later renamed the
Calaveras River, and flows through the southern part of the Lodi-Woodbridge
region.
The First
Vineyards
Capt. Charles Weber, founder of Stockton, was the first to
plant grapes in the region around his home in 1850. Two years later, a
Massachusetts man named George West, who first came to California to mine gold,
saw those flourishing vines. West got some cuttings from Weber and established
the first major vineyard in the region just north of Stockton at the southern
edge of the Lodi-Woodbridge region.
A good businessman, West could see
that California had very few wineries yet a rapidly growing and thirsty
population. In 1858, he built the El Pinal Winery and became the region's first
commercial vintner. While West was expanding his vineyards and planting
different varieties, growers in the heart of Lodi prospered farming grain and
watermelons.
The Tokay
By
the late 1880's the market for grains and watermelons went flat. Farmers began
focusing on other crops but none excelled like grapes. Several different
varieties did well in Lodi, but Zinfandel and Tokay stood out above the rest.
Farmers especially embraced the Tokay, a versatile table grape with an
eye-catching flame color. It was only in Lodi, with its sandy soils and cool
delta breezes, that the Tokay would develop its distinctive flame color laying
the foundation for what would eventually become the Lodi Appellation
(established 1986).
The Tokay was a delicious table grape that held up
well during the long rail trip across country to eastern markets. It could also
be fermented into wine, distilled into brandy, or fortified into ports and
sherries.
Vineyards
Flourish
Just after the turn of the century, vineyard development
thrived, shipping companies emerged, and wineries slowly began sprouting up in
the Lodi area. The once struggling farmers prospered, and in 1901 the local
newspaper declared that wine production was "the coming industry for this part
of the state."
Despite the prosperity, the West family maintained a
strong monopoly on local wine production, providing few alternatives for
growers to sell their grapes. Anger over the West's control led to the
formation of many co-operative wineries, where the growers actually owned the
business and shared the profits.
Prohibition
The
enactment of Prohibition in 1919 posed a real threat to Lodi winegrape growers.
Although some wineries did close, and some farmers prematurely tore out their
vines, it turned out that Prohibition became a very prosperous time for Lodi
growers. The business just changed from making wine to shipping fresh grapes.
Since home winemaking was allowed under the Volstead Act, the demand for
winegrapes actually increased during Prohibition. Thousands of railcars left
Lodi each harvest full of Zinfandels, Tokays, Alicante's, and many other
winegrapes.
The repeal of Prohibition in 1933 signaled the rebirth of
the Lodi wine industry. Some new co-operatives were formed, many new wineries
were built, and Lodi wines were once again finding their way across the
country. Dessert wines like sherry, port, and sparkling wines were the
consumer's preference at the time.
The Varietal Wine
Boom
Throughout the 40's and 50's Lodi prospered with their Tokays,
Zinfandels, and dessert wines, but then in the 1960's consumer tastes began to
change. They began to prefer table wines, and then later, quality varietal
wines. The Tokay, no longer favored by wineries, was dealt another serious blow
with the development of the seedless table grape that flourished in the warmer
climates south of Lodi. The table grape market completely disappeared, and Lodi
growers began focusing on producing quality varietal winegrapes for the
blossoming table wine market.
The transition, which began in the late
60's, and climaxed in the mid 90's saw thousands of acres of grapes converted
into premium varietal winegrapes. Buoyed by the reported health benefits of
moderate wine consumption and a strong US economy, wineries throughout the
state turned to Lodi to supply the growing demand for delicious affordable
table wines.
The Lodi
Appellation
The area's transition to premium wines got a credibility
boost when the Lodi Appellation (American Viticulture Area) was approved in
1986. Wineries were now able to label their wines with Lodi listed as the
grapes' origin. Lodi was no longer the wine industry's best kept secret as
awareness slowly began to build for the distinctive quality of Lodi wines. At
first only a handful of small local vintners produced a "Lodi" designated wine,
but as the quality and the reputation spread, wineries across the state proudly
proclaimed "Lodi" on their wine label.
Today & The
Future
Today, Lodi is home to over 70 wineries, hundreds of "Lodi"
labeled wines, and thousands of acres of premium winegrapes. Its growers and
vintners combine the best of tradition with the most modern advances of science
and technology. It leads the industry in sustainable viticultural practices,
preserving the land for generations to come. It is a region where a new
generation of growers is rediscovering its rich heritage, and setting out to
produce world-class wines that rival the best that California has to
offer.
Images courtesy of the San
Joaquin County Historical Museum. |
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